I agree with Andy and the others that if possible, you should stay away from suspension and disk brakes.
You may want to consider a Brooks saddle though... http://www.brooksengland.com/ads/ad_2006.jpg

Now THAT's a saddle!
It doesn't come with the rider, does it?
(I do love the classic leather and pouch too!)

Ari, look out for a bike called a Globe City 3.1. Its made by Specialized but designed for city use and luggage carrying.
Thanks Andy, but... I didn't find the 3.1, but the 4 and 5 and they go from 900 to 1100 euros...

To add to your supply of ever more useful information. There's a significant difference in rolling resistance between the different types of tire. If you have any marginal roads or streets with cobblestones or gravel I'd stay away from the road tire.

Road tires are usually high pressure or 80+ psi & because of this they're good on smooth, paved surfaces. They're narrow, about 3/4-1" wide. They have very low rolling resistance and are lighter than the other tires. A competition racer will use tires that will take 120psi. Drawbacks are they're delicate & give a very harsh ride.

Mountain tires can be had with the knobby or combination tread. Usually around 2" wide. They run around 40-60 psi & because they're wider, a softer, more cushy ride. With the more aggressive knobbies, they're rough on pavement, great off road. The combination tire works better on pavement but will still deal with the occasional mud track.

Hybrid tires are as they suggest, a compromise between the other two.
Wider that road & narrower than mountain, tire pressure also somewhere between. Tread patterns tend to be more for urban situations but some aggressive treads can be bought.

Frames & bars road frames can be really light, but some don't take a great deal of rough treatment. They typically use drop handlebars & are designed for that racing crouch.

Mountain bikes. Rugged & heavy frame. Straight or slightly bowed handlebars.
Hybrid. Think along the lines of a relaxed road frame with a flat or drop bar.

The nice thing is you can mix & match components as long as they physically fit the frame of your choice. My bike is a hybrid with racing saddle & drop bars because that's what I like.

Arri,

I would find a good used hardtail and have it tuned up. Front suspension makes the biggest difference in how a bike rides over terrain, and offers a good trade off for weight and complexity vs comfort. Put a good seat on it.

For the kind of riding you are doing, the rolling resistance of the tire design isn't a big deal from an effort standpoint, a durable and aggressive puncture resistant tire that can run on road and off will serve you well.

Baskets and bags come in so many flavors, you can add pretty much what you want.

Ari, here's my main hack. Its a Dawes Republic, 27 speed with Schwalbe City Jet slick tyres. Here it is stripped for summer riding, come winter I fit full mudguards. Note the only suspension is the seat post. It gets used on and off road.

Here's the Globe City 3.1 (http://www.buzzillions.com/dz_177410_specialized_globe_city_3.1_reviews#revie ws)

Bicycles I've found so far at the local stores around my budget:
- Ideal ZigZag http://www.idealbikes.net/bike.php?bike=123
- Ideal Spark http://www.idealbikes.net/bike.php?bike=138
- Ideal Crosser http://www.idealbikes.net/bike.php?bike=151
- Ideal Daily (Can't find it. Looks like a comfort city bike, with the saddle at low position)
- Field Apolon http://www.field.gr/159BB316.en.aspx
- Specialized Hardrock XC http://www.specialized.gr/index.php/en/mountain-bicycles/hardrock-xc-disc.html
- Mongoose Crosswalk 350 http://www.mongoose.com/mtn/ProductDetails.html?id=2349&enc=mtn|12

I will report any others I find as there are stores in the city I haven't been in.
Do you think any of these is any good for me?

The replacable derailleur hanger on the Mongoose and Specialized bikes is a nice feature, it's not clear in the descriptions on the others whether they have that.
It makes catastrophic repairs easier (that is if the rear derailleur gets caught in the spokes or an obstruction and gets torn out of the frame). If it's properly adjusted it won't get in the spokes, obstructions are another matter.
These frames are aluminum, and steel fasteners theaded into aluminum are not the best combination. The repacable hanger allows repairs to be done more easily than the alternatives of machining the hole and installing an insert or scrapping the frame.

Anything less than 8 sprockets in the back is a little old-school nowdays, so I'd say the 24 speed models are preferable to the 21 speed models, other things being equal. In general, as you go up in the number of gears, durability goes down, especially when you get to 10 sprockets in back. But there won't be a significant difference durability-wise between 7 and 8, but 8 speed cassettes will be easier to replace in the future.

Rack mounting eyelets will be helpful for mounting a rack or fenders, it's hard to tell from the photos which, if any, are so equipped.

Of the models with disks, the ZigZag has Shimano brakes, which are probably a better choice (for disk brakes) than the no-name ones on the Specialized. Much has been said regarding disks vs V brakes, so I won't go there.

The Shimano Deore components on the Zig Zag are a notch higher quality than Altus components on several of the others, I believe.

Most of this is nit picking. Much more important - how do any of these fit you? They'll all be a little different. You aren't planning to spend hours at a time riding, but you might as well be as comfortable as possible.

Do any of these share frames with more expensive models? Typically the manufacturers will build frames at various quality levels then match those to different levels of components to hit the desired price points. There will be models that overlap in the frame/component quality scale.
So, if you're looking to save money , the sweet spot (IMHO) is a higher quality frame matched to lower-end components. It's easy to upgrade the components as you replace stuff that wears out, or if you decide to splurge, and you get the (relative) light weight and structural integrity of the better frame.

In basic function- all of these will do what you're looking to accomplish. What matters is how the bike fits, how easy it is to repair, and whether it's equipped to support the things you want to do (like adding racks). And last but not least, looks appealing to you.

One of my kids has a Specialized Hardrock. They've made them forever, and it's a good solid entry-level mountain bike from a good company.

Still, if you can find it, I'd suggest what we in the U.S. call a "cross bike." I prefer it to a mountain bike for city riding. As the name suggests, it's a cross between a mountain bike and a road bike. It looks like a mountain bike, though the frame tends to be a bit svelter, and the tires aren't as fat. The advantage over a mountain bike is that it's easier to pedal over paved roads and rides more like a road bike. It's not made for serious trail riding, but it can handle the occasional offroad jaunt. Every company makes them.

Take a few different bikes for a test drive, and buy the one that you like better. One will fit you better and will seem more comfortable.

I'd also recommend a gel seat if you're going to take long rides. Nothing is more important to cycling satisfaction than a comfortable seat. :)

-Laura

If you can go to a proper bicyle shop and tell them exactly what you want, then you should get good advice. Here's some more to think about.

City bikes have a habit of getting stolen so they need chaining to something. Quick release wheels are very convenient for quickly taking them off which also makes them very covenient for stealing as do quick release seat posts.
Someone has already pointed out that mountain bikes have very poor rolling resistance and that does make a very BIG difference, especially when going up hill. Suspension is just something else to wear out and on a cheap bike it will wear out quickly so don't get suspension. Infact get a bike which is as light as possible with as high a tyre pressure as possible for road use. They take much less energy to ride. But if you want to do some light off road, then a different set of wheels with some tougher tyres can be used. Don't get straight front forks if you want to use it off road. Mountain bikes have smaller front chain set and are not well geared for road use.
I would ask a bike shop for a road training bike with a nice comfortable saddle and spare set of wheels for light off road use. 10 gears are enough and won't wear out as quickly as a chainset with three main cogs which put more stress on the chain. We used to say that Shimano wear out whereas Campagnollo wear in. Don't know if thats still true today.
A basic road training bike is not expensive as it doesn't have all those gizmos on it that kids like the look of and make them more attractive to thieves.

I just bought a Hybrid bike. It's also called a "Comfort Bike". I love it! The tires are between mountain treads and street bike treads. My bike has 21 gears with its gearing towards low/flat traveling to going up small hills. I plan to get it rig for carrying my cameras.

Not only that Steve, there have been many instances of disc brakes 'turning' wheels out of the ends of forks with forward facing dropouts due to the torsional force, resulting in serious injury to the rider.


Hmmm.

I have just done a search and looked at a few bikes with disc brakes. They all have the brake pads behind the forks which means that during braking the rotational force centred on the brake will indeed tend to turn the wheel out of the fork ends. Now if the pads were in front of the forks, the reverse would be true and the design would be inherently safe.


Steve.

Having worked in the cycle sport industry for years with riders using state of the art machines costing thousands of pounds, my suggestion is this; buy a cheap second-hand bike road or mtn bike and fit wider tyes if its a road bike or mixed ground tyres if it is a mtn bike. Buy a bike lock but since you wont have paid too much, you won't be worrying too much about it being stolen. New and shiny bikes are the ones that generally get stolen especially in cities. If you intend using the bike more seriously, then invest more money.
As for make, don't worry too much as most bikes for all makes are now made in similar places by a few companies and are surprisingly similar. FWIW.
As for rolling resistance; the wider the tyre, the less rolling resistance - to a point. so, top track riders do not use the narrowist tyres but use ones with the optimum rolling resistance and reasonable wind resistance [22mm mostly].

I've exchanged some messages with a local cyclist and he suggested the Ideal Pro-Rider (http://www.idealbikes.net/bike.php?bike=124), which looks good. He also suggests that front wheel suspension is essential to our bad pavement roads and even more so when wanting to get out of them and don't feel restricted.
I've been educating myself also and so far have decided to invest everything on a good frame with the idea to upgrade later on.
First purchases will be the hybrid tires you mentioned, large fenders, equipment carriers, saddle bag and LED lights. Possibly later on upright handles and level gear changers. And of course a helmet, probably around 30-50 euros.
I don't want to spend more than 500-600 euros though, which is double the budget I had in mind the beginning, but then I am thinking that for a beginner who has no experience what he likes and doesn't, something to start from is a good idea.

Tomorrow I will go see a friend who is a jewelry maker and a fanatic bike rider for some good advice adjusted to the realities of this city and island.

Thank you all for your valuable information. You have helped me considerably.
I will keep you informed.

How about the Ideal Traveler (http://www.idealbikes.net/bike.php?bike=152)
which looks more like a complete hybrid set?

Be sure your bike is intended to carry baggage.

Most of today's bikes become completely unstable when you put a couple steel swedish bricks on it.

Even if a bike will take bags or a rack, that alone is not proof it will be stable.
A 50 year old bike with 50 year old parts is quite capable of doing all you need if it is the right design.

How about the Ideal Traveler (http://www.idealbikes.net/bike.php?bike=152)
which looks more like a complete hybrid set?

That one looks like it already has everything you need.

I went the same way when I purchased my real MTB/City bike a while ago.
Like the others have said, the majority of good bikes are rather similar, so you really can't go wrong, unless you go for the absolutely cheapest one you can find...

In my parts the brands are Fuji, Gary Fisher and Trek.

I purchased a Fuji Thunder, and for several years I've been very happy with it. It's not as light as some other bikes, but it has mudguards, lights, rack, etc.

Here's how it looks like:

http://www.fujibikes.com/images/bikes/thunder04_4.jpg

BTW, I purchased a separate (more comfortable and padded) saddle, and added a suspension saddle column. I guess you could say it's a "hybrid/comfort" bike... :)
I drive it around the town, and also for some "offroad" terrain (read "poor roads").

The bike you are looking for, and I think it's similar to the one I have, is necessarily a compromise - it's not as fast as a sports (road) bike and not as rugged (or light) as a true MTB. However, when you add padlock, rack (or a saddle or a front basket for carrying stuff), lights, etc. - it necessarily gets heavier. But, it's still manageable.

I drive it mainly around town, and the regulations require all the bikes to have at least the front light, so that's mandatory. The mudguards are also a must - otherwise I'll end up with mud all over my backside...

I must also say that in the beginning I was a little worried since my bike does not have chain guards - I thought my pants cuffs would get dirty all the time - but I was pleasantly surprised to find out that it's not the case. I wouldn't wear white pants on the bike, though :)

HTH,

Denis

I also have a hybrid bike, have had it for years now and get on very well with it. I used to have a hand-built touring bike which was lovely to ride but not so good for carrying things unless perfectly balanced, and low down. I nearly inflicted serious injury on each of my children once or twice by carrying them on the back and (almost) toppling over with them (never quite did, but close), when I was riding but not seated on the bike. So I got the other bike. The hybrid doesn't have mudguards and I thought this would be an issue but in fact I never bothered to fit any so obviously not.

I am seriously considering trading in both my bikes (Montague Paratrooper folding MTB and Dawes Republic hybrid) for a Pashley Moulton TSR27 (http://www.tsr.uk.com/bikes/tsr27.php) with separable frame.

I went to another bike shop today with a friend of mine and, the owner, an old man, knowledgeable and very nice to talk to, suggested the Specialized Crosstrail for about 500 euros, with a bit of a discount.
http://www.specialized.gr/index.php/en/city-bicycles/crosstrail.html
I decided not to get the fenders and rack for now and see what happens. They are cheap anyway.
My first upgrade in the future though would be a nice Brooks leather saddle with springs...

I am seriously considering trading in both my bikes (Montague Paratrooper folding MTB and Dawes Republic hybrid) for a Pashley Moulton TSR27 (http://www.tsr.uk.com/bikes/tsr27.php) with separable frame.

How about this one http://www.airnimalfoldingbikes.com/Cham.php.
Well thought of too

I had a look at the Airnimal Rhino about 18 months ago, but decided against it. I have previous experience of Moultons, always finding them to be reliable, durable, and good luggage carriers. They are also excellent for touring.

Ari, Brooks Saddles (http://www.brooksengland.com/shop/).

I went to another bike shop today with a friend of mine and, the owner, an old man, knowledgeable and very nice to talk to, suggested the Specialized Crosstrail for about 500 euros, with a bit of a discount.
http://www.specialized.gr/index.php/en/city-bicycles/crosstrail.html
I decided not to get the fenders and rack for now and see what happens. They are cheap anyway.
My first upgrade in the future though would be a nice Brooks leather saddle with springs...

I had a Specialized bicycle a bit like the crosstail many years back. It was a bit slow on the road a bit like the bicycle answer to the lorries but it was comfortable and handled well on both tarmac, gravell and sandy roads. I have a Brooks sadle on my current racing bike and can only recommend them.
Kind regards

I had a Specialized bicycle a bit like the crosstail many years back. It was a bit slow on the road a bit like the bicycle answer to the lorries but it was comfortable and handled well on both tarmac, gravell and sandy roads.
Did it have a mountain 26" wheel and tire or a 700cc trekking wheel? I went up on it and rode for about ten meters and it seemed comfortable and fast, but I don't know anything about bicycles...

My bicycle is: http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32296

I bought it because I wanted something to go to work and to drive it around, no wanted racing or mountaign or like bike. One word, easy driving. Of, course I put basket on it (http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags on bottom of page) to carry photogear :)

I payed for mine about 270 Euros (of course new, in bike shop).

Thing is it comes without parking leg or lights (only included two reflected plastics, red at back and white on front), or mud defenders, thief protecting chains, etc... so you have to spend a little for those things. And you can buy all of that combine for less than 50 Euros...