Hello all.

I found out that I have more control keeping the temperatures correct if I develop my films same way how I developd my B&W films - without any Jobo machine etc. The only thing that I am not now sure is how to agitate C-41 and E-6 tanks if not using machine. Should I keep the tank sideways (like in machine) and turn it constantly or something like in B&W developing (for example agitating 5 sec every 30 sec and then just leave the tank on the table standing)?

Same as normal, inversion, just keep the temperature stable by placing the tank in a bowl of water at the correct temperature. Doesn't need to be deep.

Ian

Same as normal, inversion, just keep the temperature stable by placing the tank in a bowl of water at the correct temperature. Doesn't need to be deep.

Ian

Thanks Ian. How about changes with developing times when compared to rotary processing?

All the kits I've used listed times for inversion agitation, so I never needed to worry about changing the times. I always used Photocolor II and their E6 kit but they are no longer available, but I also used Tetenal RA4.

The information from Jobo USA (http://www.jobousadarkroom.com/instructions/instructions_tetenal_mono_c-41.htm) is excellent and gives the times & agitation etc, and they are pretty much applicable to most makes. Other datasheets are listed in the Support section as PDF's

Ian

The Kodak E-6 kit instructions (http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/ti2443/ti2443.jhtml) includes small tank agitation directions.

Ian

Since the developer times are so short for C-41 (as well as E-6 for that matter) I agitate every 15 seconds in small tank.

I develop using a steel tank and reels. I found that the temperature loss between the bath and the tank is 2 degrees, so I keep the bath at 102. The recommended agitation is 4 lifts every 30 seconds. I always do that and drop it back into the bath (a little bump to dislodge bubbles) upright. I usually fill the bath up pretty high to about the middle of the cap. If you put it on its side there will be part of the film in the air so I don't think that's a good idea. The constant agitation causes color shift too because the blue layer gets more development.