I'm debating mixing a bleach at home to use in my C41 process. Can someone give me a comparison/rundown on the differences?

All I need to do is remove the silver, either into halide or some other salt. I don't want to pay an arm and a leg either. What's the difference between say dichromate bleach and ferricyanide bleach? Which is better for my purpose?

I've looked at Ferric EDTA but it's expensive.

PE is the expert on Kodak bleaches, and he may yet post the definitive word. I have heard that an alternative ferricyanide bleach is approved for use with C-41, but I do not have its formula. Here is the formula for SR-34, one of the alternative bleaches used for the ECN-2 motion picture negative process. There is no guarantee that it would be suitable for C-41, but the two processes are generally similar. For home use, you can probably eliminate the mold inhibitor and chelating agent.

Kodak SR-34 bleach
Alternate bleach for Process ECN-2 for motion picture negative films (Potassium “UL House” bleach)
Water (21 – 38C) 700 ml
Proxel GXL 0.07 ml (mold inhibitor)
Kodak Chelating Agent No. 1 30.6 g
Potassium hydroxide (45%) 42.7 ml
Potassium bromide (anh) 51.5 g
Acetic acid (Glacial) 7.65 ml
Ferric nitrate (nonahydrate) 35.7 g
Water to make 1 l
pH at 25C = 5.30; density = 1.070; total iron (ferric only) 5.1 g/l
Bleach motion picture film 3 minutes at 27C

That bleach is just fine but watch out for retained iron (ferric hydroxide), if you go into the bleach from the developer. The alkali carryover can cause a problem. I would suggest a mild 2% Acetic Acid stop and a short wash.

Almost any rehalogenizing ferricyanide bleach will work but you must use a sulfite containing stop bath and a wash before a ferricyanide bleach. Otherwise, the oxidation of color developer carried into the bleach can cause a very very high stain.

PE