Dry Mount Problems...Please Advise!

[Merg Ross]

Thank you, Merg. Do you use BufferMount tissue? It's interesting that you are using a hotter press than I am...I guess I'll have to try both 190 (which I now have it set for) and your 225. The roller, and top 2 ply board sounds like yet another good idea to apply.

Perhaps I need to add that the print usually looks great after it's come out of the press. It's only later that the bubbling either occurs or doesn't occur which suggests, as several of you have observed, that the tissue didn't adhere completely. Hmmmmm....

Yes, BufferMount tissue. Note that I have never tested the heat on my press for accuracy, so the 225 may not be so; however, this procedure has worked for many years. Also, the two ply board may lower the actual temperature at the print surface.

I do believe that adhesion at the cooling stage may be the problem. Rolling gives better adhesion than weight alone. Anyway, what works for me may not work for you, but it is a thought. Let us know what you discover.

[Curt]

One note, I use Seal release paper on top of the print and under the mat. It's a big sheet that I folded in two and I put the tacked print in it to press.

[Mr Bill]

If I were having problems, I'd go back through Henry Wilhelm's book. Specifically, Chapter 11, starting on page 378, "How to Determine the Ideal Mounting Temperature."

http://www.wilhelm-research.com/book_toc.html

Obviously the book is a bit out of date, but there is a good discussion of the issues.

[jovo]

If I were having problems, I'd go back through Henry Wilhelm's book. Specifically, Chapter 11, starting on page 378, "How to Determine the Ideal Mounting Temperature."

http://www.wilhelm-research.com/book_toc.html

Obviously the book is a bit out of date, but there is a good discussion of the issues.

Sounds like a terrific resource. I didn't even realize that Wilhelm Institute had done testing on pre-digital materials, so I wouldn't have though to look there.

[jovo]

Our show is now up on the walls at the Wallkill River Gallery in Montgomery, NY. It took a long time to hang, but it looks really good! My thanks to all who offered such useful tips for drymounting success. I learned a lot, and the print mounting looks better than I've ever achieved. The key has been proper adjustment of the press temperature, pressure in the cooling stage, and using a roller to exert the pressure. I am able to exert far more "weight" with a roller than I'd have been able to with a pizza stone, or other large flat object, and the technique will work for prints much larger than any flat object I could even lift that would cover a print completely. Thank you all, again!

[Merg Ross]

Congrats on the show!

Glad the tips helped, and thanks for the feedback.

[George Collier]

Hi John - nice show poster. You seem to have gotten your mounting issues worked out. I used to dry mount everything, but have lately been discouraged from this by framers and gallery folk. However, having just read your thread, I could mail you some testing strips that are mentioned in one of the posts. I used to use them with Seal MT-5, the tissue of choice some decades ago. If I'm not mistaken, they target a temperature of 210, ideal for that tissue. There are two colored patches, if one is melted after the mounting duration, the temp is at least 200 or so, if the other one is melted, it is over 215 or 220, I forget the specifics. Anyway - if you would like some (I have a lifetime supply somewhere that I will probably never use up), PM me with your address and I'll stick some in an envelope.

[jovo]

Thank you, George, and, yes, I'd be happy to have some test strips. I used to use MT-5, and was disappointed that it was discontinued. The Buffermount tissue, however, when properly applied is working well now. I'll PM you with my addy. Thank you!

[Mahler_one]

Merg: Where did you get the roller?



Ed

[Mahler_one]

George: Frankly, I would prefer to mount my FB prints with "T" hinges rather than dry mount. Did you have any problems with your FB prints remaining flat after they were mounted?

Ed

[Merg Ross]

Merg: Where did you get the roller?



Ed

Ed, I have had it for so many years that I do no recall the origin. It is a 12" hard rubber roller on a cast frame. My guess is that I purchased it from a photographic or graphic arts supplier; the photo use was most likely to roll prints onto ferrotype plates.

I would suggest a search of brayers to find something similar. However, any similar rolling device should work if you use a cover mat over the print while rolling. The trick, as John found, is to apply strong pressure over the print during the cooling process.

If you wish, you can listen to conservators about the downside of drymounting prints. In my opinion, it is the best presentation for a photographic image, and those drymounted by Edward Weston 80 years ago have sold for over a million dollars.

[Mahler_one]

Thanks very much Merg. How about a wooden roller over the cover mat?? Merg-once again, and sorry to be repetitious-what is the temperature that you "need" to reach ( and for how long ) in order to assure a tight bound with the mounting paper? An issue was raised concerning different "kinds" of such paper, i.e., color-mount vs. "standard" mounting paper. Which do you recommend?

Ed

[Merg Ross]

Thanks very much Merg. How about a wooden roller over the cover mat?? Merg-once again, and sorry to be repetitious-what is the temperature that you "need" to reach ( and for how long ) in order to assure a tight bound with the mounting paper? An issue was raised concerning different "kinds" of such paper, i.e., color-mount vs. "standard" mounting paper. Which do you recommend?

Ed
Wooden roller should work, use a two ply cover mat. Press temperature set at 225 degrees with two ply board over print, 1 1/2 minutes press time, Beinfang BufferMount tissue. Roll immediately upon removing print from press for about 30 seconds during cooling stage.

[George Collier]

To Mahler one - I no longer dry mount gallery prints, but when I did I made sure the room was not humid, pre-heated the print and the board (one at a time) just prior to mounting, and placed under aluminum plates immediately after mounting. I made sure I left in the press the right amount of time, no more (I was told that if the board gets too hot, it stays hot after removing from the press and it can buckle for that reason), no less, for the final mount (25 seconds for me, MT-5 at 210F).
I never ever had a print buckle, and have many today (that were mounted in the late 70s through the 90s) that are still flat.

[jovo]

I do believe that adhesion at the cooling stage may be the problem. Rolling gives better adhesion than weight alone. ... Let us know what you discover.

I've finally found the ideal roller for cooling stage adhesion. I went to Home Despot and looked in the paint roller aisle, and there it was - a cast aluminum, adjustable length paint roller with roller retaining arms on both sides. Using a fairly dense paint applicator roller, the thing does the job without any risk of pressure lines on the print as it's adjustable to 18 inches which perfect for 11x14 or 16x20 prints because it's larger than they are. The actual print roller is softer than hard rubber, and is extremely gentle to the print surface. Also, if it gets dirty or absorbs anything abrasive, just toss it, and buy another. Because it has retaining arms on both sides there is even pressure throughout. So...bingo! I'm happy at last! :)

[fdi]

For proper dry mounting, there are 4 critical factors that you have to control:
1. Time
2. Temperature
3. Pressure
4. Moisture

After the mounting is performed, the cool down is also a critical aspect especially for removable tissues that bond as they cool. An ideal cool down press can be created with a 1/4 thick tempered plate glass and a wooden workbench. Screw a piece of 1x2” wood to the back surface of the bench to keep the glass from sliding off the back. Position the wood strip so that the front of the glass protrudes off the front of the bench by about 1 inch so you can easily lift the glass with your hands.

Cheers,
Mark