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darkosaric
05-22-2010, 11:40 AM
I have read on

http://new55project.blogspot.com/2010/04/blog-post_6525.html

that you can bleach negative from Fuji FP100 C and B, and there is description with pictures how to do it. But I am failing, my bleach is not doing anything. On my bleach that I got from local shop says: Sodium thiosulfate and Potassium ferricyanide (google translator from Polish).

Anyone had tried this? Which bleach should I use?

thanks,

tiberiustibz
05-22-2010, 12:15 PM
You're looking for chlorine bleach, not photographic silver bleach. Like the kind you use to run laundry. The purpose of the bleach is to soften the black backing until you can wipe it off.

darkosaric
05-22-2010, 05:01 PM
You're looking for chlorine bleach, not photographic silver bleach. Like the kind you use to run laundry. The purpose of the bleach is to soften the black backing until you can wipe it off.

Thanks :). I knew it that I misunderstand something :)

tiberiustibz
05-25-2010, 06:23 PM
I've gotten a fairly interesting negative from my 100C. It's a moderately high contrast low saturation negative which can be printed optically. The pattern around the edges is cool too.

frontdrive34
05-26-2010, 05:05 AM
I use liquid swimming pool chlorine. Its much stronger than the household stuff. Also watch you don't buy a household bleach with additives like soaps, scents, suds!
Don't get any on your clothes unless you want to look like a tye dye hippy.

Marco B
05-26-2010, 06:27 AM
I have read on

http://new55project.blogspot.com/2010/04/blog-post_6525.html

that you can bleach negative from Fuji FP100 C and B, and there is description with pictures how to do it. But I am failing, my bleach is not doing anything. On my bleach that I got from local shop says: Sodium thiosulfate and Potassium ferricyanide (google translator from Polish).

Anyone had tried this? Which bleach should I use?

thanks,

You may be glad nothing happened, probably due to the fact you had the emulsion side down while applying the bleach, as per the instruction of the link you posted. If you had used a ferricyanide bleach on your images, your FP100B BW negatives would have gone almost transparent, as ferricyanide turns the silver of BW negative into an almost colourless silverferri/ferrocyanide complex. Ferricyanide bleach is a first step for a two bath sepia toning kit.

Not sure why the bleach you bought, contains sodium thiosulfate. It shouldn't. Or is this a second bottle? It than probably is sodium sulfide or thiourea instead of sodium thiosulfate. It is the tonersolution that is used after the ferricyanide bleach... Try it out on a print once, you will probably get a nice brown tone ;)

darkosaric
05-26-2010, 07:53 AM
This bleach that I used was powder one, that you mix it with 0.4 liter of water. Can't say anything more about it - since all text was on polish, and I am not very good at it :). Thanks for extra tips about swimming pool chlorine and clothes :)

Marco B
05-26-2010, 08:19 AM
It really sounds like you picked up a two bath sepia toner. In that case, the powders should NOT have been mixed (but of course, the polish instructions would not have helped ;)), but dissolved to create two separate baths, one bath for bleaching BW silver images, the other to redevelop them to a brown sepia tone.

TSSPro
05-26-2010, 08:39 AM
I didnt know that you could do that with the neg side. Sweet! I found some one who scans the neg side once its dry. Saddly, I am normally out in the woods somewhere, or being ushered out of where ever I shouldnt have been photographing, I dont get the opportunity to let my neg side dry too much before it all gets shoved in a bag.

Thanks for the link.

frontdrive34
05-26-2010, 09:09 AM
Sodium Thiosulphate is often used to dechlorinate water for aquarium fish so would have some effect on deactivating bleach.

I do it like I wrote here http://frontdrive34.blogspot.com/2010/04/blog-post.html

tiberiustibz
05-26-2010, 05:27 PM
The 100B negative is very pale, though the 3000B negative comes through very clearly. I think it has a tendency to solarize though so it should be extra fun.

darkosaric
05-27-2010, 03:50 PM
Anyhow - normal bleach for clothes works excellent - thank you all once more :).
Beside Fuji films - I will try also to bleach negatives from "triple dip" from impossible project, I have nothing to lose :).
Is it just me - or peel off film is way more fun than integral and instax film :)?

darkosaric
06-08-2010, 03:52 PM
I tried to bleach Polaroid type 100 blue and chocolate - does not work. So Fuji only :\.
But in any case - I love this Polaroid type 100 films (chocolate little more than blue); on weekend I will try last from "triple dip" (sepia) - I heard it is best of those 3.

frontdrive34
06-09-2010, 04:52 AM
I tried to bleach Polaroid type 100 blue and chocolate - does not work.
Same with the Polaroid Sepia.

smcclarin
03-15-2011, 01:56 PM
I tried my first two Negative reclamations last night with FP-100B,(self portraits) had some success with Blue 3m masking taped to glass flat on a table because the blue masking typically pulls off easy, but the Laundry stock Chlorine (worked a charm) caused the tape adhesive to become extra sticky though but cleaned off easily, but I think insoluble stuff like brown Plastic packing tape may work better to prevent the chlorine from getting the emulsion wet beneath the protective plastic, a purpose made chemical resistant plastic masking tape would be perfect! I did discover that if you have a hand spray windex bottle you can literally spray off the Black goo, didnt realize the emultion was below the plastic, so Rubbing gently may be less liquid intensive. The step with the plastic and the roller will only need gentle pressure unless you very lightly soaked your paper towel. (I used toilet tissue folded about 6 times and probably oversoaked it with bleach) I will use less next time, just enough to dampen the paper and the backing. 20 minutes seemed to work prefectly. If the emulsion is allowed to dry (1-2 hours) prior, and kept dry during the backing removal process I can see that a good crisp negative can be had for scanning. I think water rinsing can re-soften the emulsion and Personally I like the scrunched emulsion look around the borders, it has a very plastic and analog feeling to it like a physically melted negative that would take hours of digital manipulation to accurately mimic. Underexposures seem to hold the most detail in the negative and come out slightly yellow but can be adjusted digitally back to black and white, probably best with grayscale on a color image to preserve tone. Ansell's methodology is once again Prophetic in his "Expose for the shadows" approach. Hint: save all those underexsposed instant Negatives they will likely be more valuable visually than the proofs as you will be surprised at the detail remaining in the shadow areas representing Zones 1-4!
This process should be featured in every school science lab activity for elementary education it never gets old!

jp498
03-15-2011, 02:11 PM
I do this with some sort of drano max gel pipe clog remover. It's bleach for sure. I tape the negative down with quality masking tape and take it into the darkroom.

http://jason.philbrook.us/gallery3/var/resizes/2011/2011-02-27---Emma-loses-a-tooth/_DSC2672.jpg

In the sink, I use a pipette to put maybe 5-6 ML of drano bleach onto it. I spread it around with a paper towel. It's ready to come off in about a minute. I wipe it off, rinse it real clean. After I'm sure the bleach is rinsed away, I put it in a tray of cold cold water, and rub the dried snot off the emulsion side. It comes off best in cold water.

The negative is good to scan. It's also pretty good for alt process. It does seem to block UV light somewhat, but an extra stop or two exposure and it will still produce fine results. The brown print below was just a test on a paper which I determined wasn't a good choice for this work. The midtones and shadows printed real nice for a cyanotype on the first try.

http://jason.philbrook.us/gallery3/var/resizes/2011/2011-02-27---Emma-loses-a-tooth/img317.jpg

rknewcomb
03-17-2011, 07:46 PM
That is just too cool! I've got to try that!
thanks for the information.
Robert

Trask
03-17-2011, 08:37 PM
I posted about a year ago about using Scrubbing Bubbles with Bleach. It's great -- adheres to the negative, doesn't run at all, spread it around with a spoon. Forget using liquid bleach that gets under the tape, and try Scrubbing Bubbles.

xya
03-18-2011, 04:51 AM
scrubbing bubbles with bleach have been discontinued in 2008. please have a look at this:

http://www.scjohnson.com/en/products/asked-and-answered/ask-question-comment.aspx?title=Do-You-Make-Scrubbing-Bubbles-with-Bleach

what product do you use exactly? I would be well interested in a less liquid product.

kind regards

reinhard

Trask
03-18-2011, 06:19 AM
scrubbing bubbles with bleach have been discontinued in 2008. please have a look at this:

http://www.scjohnson.com/en/products/asked-and-answered/ask-question-comment.aspx?title=Do-You-Make-Scrubbing-Bubbles-with-Bleach

what product do you use exactly? I would be well interested in a less liquid product.

kind regards

reinhard

Well, that's pretty strange. I bought some Scrubbing Bubbles with Bleach at a US military commissary last year. I suppose it could have been sitting on the shelf since 2002, but that is even more unlikely. Let me hit my local supermarket and see what I see.