View Full Version : Stuck on stupid
04-25-2011, 09:43 AM
The title really says it all.
I'm trying to copy some slides using a bellows unit (Nikon PB4) and a 55 Micro-Nikkor. I also have the PK13 extension.
I've used this setup successfully in the past (minus the PK13) to copy slides 1:1 onto print film.
My problem now is that I am trying to use a newer body (old body needs repair), and to mount the newer body the extension tube is needed to clear the rear standard of the bellows. I can get greater than life size, but I can't figure out how to get closer to a 1:1 - I don't want to have to crop almost half the slide to copy it.
What am I missing/doing wrong?
FWIW - I am trying to copy them using a D-type camera, but the problem would be the same if using any of the newer film bodies (ie F5).
I do have a fair number of slides I'd like to copy in this fashion, so it would be great to be able to just set it up and go. Failing that, I may be reduced to taping the slides to a window to shoot them.
04-25-2011, 01:13 PM
Removing the bellows unit from the optical path should make everything work. :)
04-25-2011, 01:25 PM
wouldn't the crop factor of the d****l body play some part on this? that 55 is close to 90mm on crops sensors, of course if you're using a "full frame" this does not imply.
04-25-2011, 02:25 PM
Bob - I could do what you suggest, but then I'd love that slide holder that can be locked in place and I'd be back to taping my sides to the window to copy them. ;)
Dave - I never thought about the crop factor, right now I'd be happy to get anything close to the right size in focus!
In order to mount the camera, I am using more extension than needed to get 1:1. So, what I am trying to figure out is how to get less magnification from that amount of extension. Wider lens, longer lens, greater working distance from the front of the lens to the slide?
Just having one of those days where my mind is running in circles and not getting anywhere.
04-25-2011, 02:30 PM
Try a longer lens.
George Nova Scotia
04-25-2011, 06:03 PM
Paul I have an ancient set of K rings. It may be possible to use a shorter setup than the PK and still get the clearance you need to attach the bellows. Now the bad news: a quick google indicates that K rings may cause problems with the contacts on the newer cameras.
Anyone out there tried these?
04-25-2011, 06:19 PM
Paul, pardon my ignorance of your camera. I have a PB-4, also an N8008S. Attaching the N8008S to the PB-4 with the PB-4's rotating male F-mount in the horizontal position is impossible. But the camera can be attached with the bellows' F-mount in the vertical position. It can then be rotated to the horizontal position. Have you tried this?
04-25-2011, 07:29 PM
Dan - naturally rotating the mount was something that completely eluded me! That's the exact solution I needed. The camera body mounts and clears the rails, so I'm good to go!
I had totally forgotten that the rear mount rotates - but in my own defense I did say I was 'stuck on stupid!' lol
Thanks again everybody!!
04-25-2011, 07:31 PM
With respect to the original question:
From your comments, I presume that you must use the Nikon PB4 bellows unit in order to use a dedicated Nikon slide copier and that, due to interference between the camera body and the bellows unit, you must use the 27.5mm Nikon PK-13 extension tube between the body and the bellows unit.
Using the PK-13, PB4, and PS5 simultaneously forces constraints on the minimum and maximum focal length of the lens to get your wanted 1:1 magnification.
The shortest lens you can use is 71mm (due to the combined lengths of the tube and closed bellows).
With the PK-13 and PB4 mounted and the PS5 slide copier extended as far forward as possible, the longest slide-to-film (or sensor) distance possible is about 397mm.
Consequently, to get 1:1 magnification you can use a lens no longer than 99mm focal length.
So, if you must use both the PK-13 and bellows, then you must choose a lens in the range of 71mm to 99mm to get 1:1 magnification.
04-26-2011, 12:03 PM
I think the problem is solved? And this post may be irrelevant now :)
But to the original question, I think what paul means is actually he gets more than 1:1 with a d****l body (am I right?) and is see this caused by the crop sensors. In that case he ought to use a shorter lens.