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Clive, remember that what you are doing is inducing the Sabattier effect. You are not Solarizing the film.
With Sabattier, you superimpose a positive image on a negative image during processing by means of a short flash. Solarization is gotten by very very long exposures in-camera.
Also, Solarization is very uncommon with paper, as it requires a camera exposure and it uses very long exposures due to the low paper speeds.
They look quite different.
PE
Photo engineer, did I say otherwise? I do know the difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
Clive;
The implication of the concatenated posts by you and by massimix could lead one to either conclusion. In fact, the comment on doing it with film (usually done in-camera), and using short high intensity flashes, rather than long low intensity illumination can be particularly confusing to some.
I jumped in, perhaps an unwarranted jump on my part, but for others reading the thread.
Sorry.
PE
Just to add an example, here are two versions of a shot I did. One is a contact print and the other was given a couple of circuits of a small flashlight while it was in the developer. I have a few prints of this image that I did this way and each is slightly different.
Very nice!
Let's call it pseudo-solarisation, so no-one gets confused! By the way, to my surprise, I see that Silverprint.co.uk still sell Ilfospeed graded paper, and also a developer called Solarol http://www.silverprint.co.uk/Product...asp?PrGrp=5023 Anyone tried this? (or a similar one)
Solarol developer is worthwhile for anyone wanting good results with little experimenting. It works on both film and paper. Both should be high contrast. I've used it with Tech Pan and litho film. Tech Pan sheet film was shot at an exposure index of maybe 25. For developing, it was inserted in a cut-down film hanger to keep it submersed in the developing tray and backed by a fully exposed and developed sheet of scrap film to eliminate reflections from the film hanger. A water bath preceeded development. This is important to insure even development. The film was developed for about 45 seconds with constant agitation for the first 30 seconds. Then it was briefly flashed. More than a few seconds of flashing degrades the Sabattier effect. A small electronic flash is efficient and consistant. After another 45 seconds with no agitation the film is transferred to the stop bath and processed normally. My avatar was shot on Tech Pan and the below image was shot on litho film, both processed with Solarol for psuedo-solarization. Litho film has the advantage of permitting one to monitor the developing under a safelight.
One Film Solarization, One Print Solarization Ilford Warmtone
Bob, is the print a Solarization or is it the Sabbatier effect?
PE
Ron - you know me and my thoughts on the paper Mr Jolly wrote... I call them solarizations but they probably would be called Sabbatier.
I am only here once a week talk later.