I have a question about development.
So if the film is rated at asa 100 and the massive development chart said i should use 7 min to develop.
Then I saw you guys saying the actual speed should be 50 and I followed that.
Should I still use 7 min then?
By all means try it at 100 - I reckon it probably does 100 in Xtol, but maybe only just. 50 will be safer for your shadows. Shoot a sheet at each (or a few frames at each, for rollfilm) speed and see which of the negatives you prefer.
Keep the same development time initially. The recommended times give about the right contrast I think but if you're not accurate with your developing time/temp/dilution, it can build to too-high contrast pretty quickly.
Originally Posted by Terry Christian
Love your work too Terry! Beautiful tonality. Souping in HC-110 B gives it an old time look. That the best I can describe it. You use Rodinal and I think the looks is about the same.
there's a reciprocity failure chart for fomapan 100/arista edu ultra 100 here.
i get great 4x5 negatives on fomapan 100/arista edu @ 50 ASA and developed 10-12 minutes in pyrocat at 1:1:100. most of my exposures go beyond a second, and i found here on apug some times for reciprocity failures from Murray@uptowngallery and simply compiled them in a handy pdf that so far hasn't failed me. http://consumptive.org/2011/04/03/fo...zchild-effect/
I shoot a lot of EDU 100 and develop it in Rodinal almost exclusively. It is a terrific film and very inexpensive. I have never experienced any fingerprints on the emulsion but I do try to handle it by the edges.
I don't use tmax100 mostly because it has a UV blocking layer and I like to do UV based contact prints like cyanotype and vandyke. So I use tmax400 instead. But for a slower film, I've used Arista/Foma 100 in 4x5 for about a hundred sheets.
Originally Posted by Shootar401
It's got good tones and is very conventional in it's look. Grain is kinda big. Compared to the Kodak, it's very sensitive to processing; easy to get pinholes from strong fixer or stop. I have settled on using tf4 fixer as the kodak fixer was causing me pinholes. I have had some quality problems in 8x10; it's good but not perfect as we'd expect from Kodak/Ilford/Fuji.
Compared to Tmax400, it it shows freckles better on people. It's like the tmy2 was yellow filtered or something. I generally shoot Arista/Foma100 at 64 and develop it in pyrocat-hd 1:1:100 like I do tmax. When I run out, I'll probably get some Ilford film for the lower speed option to go along with my hoard of tmy2. It's not much more money for perfect film. At least in the US, Ilford has a price advantage over Kodak/Fuji and it's always good quality.