The so called "3200" films are two films that I would avoid referring to with the phrase "box speed" - I think it just adds confusion.
In most cases, people referring to "box speed" are referring to the ISO rating. If you refer to Delta 3200's "box speed", how does anyone know whether you mean it's ISO rating (1000) or the number in the name (3200)?
My question, how many films are exactly the exposure level listed on the box?
Also, why can't they just make a film speed that is actually 3200? Are there/were there any? Is P3200 really 3200? Which is better for resolution?
The Important Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
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Every deviation we make from the ISO rating and the ISO processing standard to any other speed or process standard is a person specific speed known as an Exposure Index, an EI.
Everything from our metering methods to the accuracy of our thermometers to our choice of paper can affect our personal EI choices.
I'm going to hazard a guess that outside of those who actually do ISO testing for film manufacturers, few if any of us mimic the ISO standards in practice. The film speeds that people brag about "finding" are in fact EI's.
This doesn't mean these films don't or won't do a good job at an EI of 3200 or 400. Box ratings are just numbers.
Even Ilford and Kodak show us various EI's that are workable. This data sheet for Delta 400 is a great example, http://ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2010628953322222.pdf see page 3, the numbers in bold.
If Ilford had chosen Microphen as the ISO stand developer for Delta 400 the ISO rating may have been 500, if Perceptol maybe ISO 250.
They could, it would have a short shelf life.
None that I know of.
No. 800-1000, depends on developer, see Kodak tech pub.
I shoot D3200 at 1000-1250 with Pyrocat HD. Anything faster gets me impenetrable shadows, but I can push for highlight density. I only get about 800-1000 with Rodinal using semi-stand, 640-800 with PMK.
D76 is the devil, so can't tell you there, I just know that I hate blocked up highlights and don't get them with compensating development regimes.
I decided to go ahead and shoot the film at the "box speed" (by which I mean the speed the name suggests if not the actual rated speed), partly to play it safe but also due to the low existing light levels. Here's a sample of my results. It seemed much grainier than the 120 version of the same film, but I was still happy with what I got.