I use it in ID-11 and mix it 1:3. Gives me a time around 16 min. but your mileage may vary.
Happy with it overall.
-Rob Skeoch
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I use it in ID-11 and mix it 1:3. Gives me a time around 16 min. but your mileage may vary.
Happy with it overall.
-Rob Skeoch
So I'm guessing EI100 and about 10% under under Ilford's recommendation?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Skeoch
that sounds right, but you need to conduct a proper film test to get your best values:
//www.darkroomagic.com/DarkroomMagic/Darkroom.html
Perceptol 1:3 for 16 minutes, agitating once per minute, shot @ ISO 50. I find it gives a very fine grain and smooth tones. I have accidentally shot rolls @ 100 and developed them for 22 minutes and had good luck as well, but that's pretty boring!
You guys are crazy, I try to stay under 10 minutes with any developer, I'm super lazy...
Probably the other reason I like Pan F+ and Ilfsol 3 since its like 4 minutes for the 1+9 mix. So nice!
~Stone
The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
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Delta 100 will work well with most any general purpose developer from D76 to XTOL to Rodinal. I find it loses too much speed in Pyro but that's only my personal preference. In the end it will look very similar to FP4 in terms of tonality, just with finer grain. What might be worth noting is in my tests I found DDX to give Delta virtually box speed without even resorting to alternate dilutions, agitation schemes etc. So if you want to shoot at box speed DDX is a good option. Grain is only slightly more prominent than in D76/ID11. But I found the recommended time of 12 minutes far too long. 8-9 minutes worked much better.
Not really; the 1 minute agitation times actually work out pretty well. It gives me enough time to run around the house and get other little jobs done while it's developing. I actually make it a rather productive time. Since I develop film in my kitchen and not tucked away in a darkroom, in between agitations I get the dishwasher loaded, countertops cleaned, maybe get a load of laundry going, etc. I actually don't mind it as much as, say, TX400 in D-76. Even though it's 1/2 the amount of development time, the 30 second agitations don't really give me any time to turn my back and get anything else done.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
Having said that, my primary B&W is TX400 in D-76, which I actually find rather laborious to develop as it requires pretty much constant attention. That and I find the 120 size MUCH more annoying to spool than Ilford films. Oh but that classic Kodak look.... makes it all worth it! :cool:
I can get coffee through the machine, do an agitation then steam milk before next agitation:)Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteZ8
First, with all that chemical on your hands / counter / etc, you shouldn't be doing dishes or doing laundry or as the next poster said making coffee... That's just too chemically risky to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteZ8
I don't get the 120 to ilford comment... All of my ilford is 120....
Do you use plastic or SS reels? If you use plastic, don't use the Patterson spools they are terrible, use JOBO spools, ironically I like the Patterson tanks much better and find the JOBO tanks leaky and lame, but the opposite with the spool/reels. They have an extra tongue sticking out that makes them super easy to load.
~Stone
The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic
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Do share your dilution\times?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Grant