Pulling Ilford HP5 Plus 400 ISO film to 12 ISO. Possible?

Reduction is not something that you want to do to lessen grain or improve acutance. It's purpose is to salvage negatives that have been improperly exposed or developed. I doubt that it would improve acutance.

There are 3 types of reducers.

o Cutting or sub-proportional
o Proportional
o Super-proportional

Each addresses a different problem. Their use is usually the subject of an entire chapter in such books as Ansel Adams, The Negative. Depending on whether the ferricyanide and thiosulfate are mixed together or used seperately Farmer's Reducer can be either a cutting reducer or a proportional one. When mixed together the reducer lasts for only an hour or so and cannot be saved.

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Originally Posted by Gerald C Koch

Reduction is not something that you want to do to lessen grain or improve acutance. It's purpose is to salvage negatives that have been improperly exposed or developed. I doubt that it would improve acutance.

There are 3 types of reducers.

o Cutting or sub-proportional
o Proportional
o Super-proportional

Each addresses a different problem. Their use is usually the subject of an entire chapter in such books as Ansel Adams, The Negative. Depending on whether the ferricyanide and thiosulfate are mixed together or used seperately Farmer's Reducer can be either a cutting reducer or a proportional one. When mixed together the reducer lasts for only an hour or so and cannot be saved.

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Thanks, I'll have to read up on it more, the change in terms over the ages is what often gets me confused or stuck when reading one thing, then another, but this is certainly a stepping point. I Hope this can help the OP as well.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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Hey Stone the other interesting thing about using a reducer is that the effect is reversible. If you go to far you can redevelop the silver and try again, as long as you haven't put it through the fix again.

As Gerold says this is basically a rescue technique for film.

For prints though it can be used creatively and selectively instead of dodging in many cases.

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Originally Posted by markbarendt

Hey Stone the other interesting thing about using a reducer is that the effect is reversible. If you go to far you can redevelop the silver and try again, as long as you haven't put it through the fix again.

As Gerold says this is basically a rescue technique for film.

For prints though it can be used creatively and selectively instead of dodging in many cases.

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Really??? That's crazy, I really need to learn more, amazing, thanks for the tidbit.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markbarendt

Hey Stone the other interesting thing about using a reducer is that the effect is reversible. If you go to far you can redevelop the silver and try again, as long as you haven't put it through the fix again.

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The recommended version of Farmer's Reducer for over-exposure, that is cutting or sub-proportional, cannot be reversed as the thiosulfate in it removes the excess silver. This why the reducer should be adjusted to work slowly so as not to reduce the negative too much. This is accomplished by changing the amount of ferricyanide. The density of the negative must be checked periodically during the process.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gerald C Koch

The recommended version of Farmer's Reducer for over-exposure, that is cutting or sub-proportional, cannot be reversed as the thiosulfate in it removes the excess silver. This why the reducer should be adjusted to work slowly so as not to reduce the negative too much. This is accomplished by changing the amount of ferricyanide. The density of the negative must be checked periodically during the process.

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Gotcha thanks.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stone,
if you can get the darkroom cook book.
Although, in my opinion, being poor value - too expensive and not that much information - there is some information you will not find easily elsewhere. It is worth buying for future reference. You will find information on reducers and intensifiers, where to buy and if you are up to mix them yourself.
Not on the top of buying priorities, but unique (?) and nice to have.
Joao

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Originally Posted by Niebylsamwlesie

Hi
By mistake I exposed Ilford HP5 Plus 400 as ISO 12 :-(

Do you have any idea how to rescue that film? It means how develop it.

greetings

JW

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Not an expert by any means but my best bet is to use very diluted rodinal (if you have any) something like 1:400 and develop by inspection. If the developer loses strength before the desired development level, add fresh 1:400 solution.

You can always use a reducer afterwards.

Joao

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jsimoespedro

Stone,
if you can get the darkroom cook book.
Although, in my opinion, being poor value - too expensive and not that much information - there is some information you will not find easily elsewhere. It is worth buying for future reference. You will find information on reducers and intensifiers, where to buy and if you are up to mix them yourself.
Not on the top of buying priorities, but unique (?) and nice to have.
Joao

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Thanks.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk