Isn't that what shooters use for reloading ammo? If so, try one of the mail order sporting goods outfits like Gander Mountain.Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardo12458
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Isn't that what shooters use for reloading ammo? If so, try one of the mail order sporting goods outfits like Gander Mountain.Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardo12458
The conversion from grains to grams is straightforward, either by formula or table. At that point, it is the exact same issue as any other small quantity measurement. You make a solution using enough of the chemical that your scale can accurately weigh it, and then use a volume of the solution that delivers the original quantity specified in the recipe. This is the reason to use drops or mls of 1% or 10% solutions.Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardo12458
I use Michael Smith's Amidol formulae because shipping is getting really expensive, and the Lodima prints come out so nice. I do get a weird floating goopy-looking precipitate after the sodium thiosulfate sits for 24 hours. Tests say it's still good, but I never saw it with Kodak fix--maybe it's just the result of evaporation and the Na-thio coming back out. I'm not a chemist.
As I recall, the Haloid Corp of Rochester NY was approached by Young Chester Carlson with his new imaging invetion, and the product was so sucessful, the company changed it's name - To XEROX.Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardo12458
I'm already going in about 12 different directions, but reading threads like this makes me realize I will never ever get bored. I can see trying out these neat recipes in my future....
Does that Agfa book have color formulas? CN17 or Whatever develops Negative Ultra K film :). Also color reversal film like ORWO color film that's transparency film?Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardo12458
I need both formulas to develop some film, I do have a C-41 instruction that supposedly works at 20° temps but I would prefer to use the original formulas.
Thanks
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve been mixing from raw chemicals for so long now, I would never go back to pre-mixed packets. The control one has, sort of creeps up on you. Plus if stored correctly, shelf life is indefinite; I’m currently using a bottle of Kodak Bromide with a use before 1964 date.
Ansco 135, D72, D76, FX4, FX5B are mostly what I’m currently using; with D76 and Ansco 135 my current go to combination.
Mick.
I have been 'mixing my own' since I started in 1951 at the school Photo-Soc and the Chemistry Master showed us how to mix our own developers-- then when I got a job in 1959 as a Photographer in the Civil Service Ministry of Aviation I discovered a room there like an 'Aladdin's Cave' of ex- WWII chemicals all dusty !! I told the Boss I could make up D163 print developer for the Senior Photographers who each had a small darkroom, using 'whole plate' glass negatives and he didn't believe me at first but when I showed him I saved the Department a LOT of money and used up the old chemicals from 1945 !!!
Does anyone mix the t-grain developers like DD-X or Tmax? I know they are "proprietary formulas" but has anyone figured them out yet?
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
Ilford recommend DD-X for all of their films. It is not specific to the Delta / TMAx films.Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC