The crazy thing about these threads is that I can never figure out, other than availability, why people wouldn't just get over it and use a stop bath.
Less time, less hassle, less complexity.
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The crazy thing about these threads is that I can never figure out, other than availability, why people wouldn't just get over it and use a stop bath.
Less time, less hassle, less complexity.
I can only agree with you.Quote:
The crazy thing about these threads is that I can never figure out, other than availability, why people wouldn't just get over it and use a stop bath.
Less time, less hassle, less complexity.
And about availability: Citric Acid (15g/ltr.) or Acetic Acid (99,5% (Glacial), 15% (cleaning) or white vinegar) should not be any problem to get one of these.
In the practical way when I am changing the fixer (6-10 films 500ml) I am changing the stop (Citric Acid) too. I do not like to keep working solutions over a longer time. And if you look at the costs of some chemicals, it's a fraction of the overall costs in photography. And for the work: I like liquid chemicals, fast and easy, no hassle outside the darkroom with powders. Making a new set (stop + fix) is just minute work.
I only fill my tank up with water 1 time for the 'stop' step. It works fine.Quote:
Okay. Fill a tank 3 times or fill a tank 1 time. How valuable is your time?
I also use plain water (the same water I presoak in) as 'stop' when I develop sheet film in hangers. This saves me a whole tank of chemicals that I don't have to set out and maintain 2L of, and store somewhere in my tiny darkroom.
I lolled at "less complexity" and "less hassle".
Steve, so true.....
Thanks for the tip. I'll start using stop bath for film processing. I currently use it for print processing, but is it OK to use the same stop bath for print and film processing?
I will start with the disclaimer that I do not use stop bath, I use straight cold water from a tap and that is good enough for me and what I'm doing.I am just shooting for fun, and yes my negatives are all over the place, dark, light, thin, purple, but I really don't care as long as I can get a print from them I'm happy.
If you truly want to have consistent results you need to remove as many variables as you can. That includes maintaining temperature, using the same water for everything, and keeping track of all times. Yes it is easy to get images to show up on a negative, but to get them to show up the same way every time takes a lot of precise control. You can use straight water as a stop bath, and still maintain this control, but you will need a lot of it and you will have to keep it in a tank, and when the tank is empty and you refill it your results may change and you will have to adjust for that. Unless you have a water treatment set up at your home that can ensure that your water is the same every time, or you don't care about things being the same every time, use the stop bath and distiled water for everything.
There are some people that get enjoyment from taking total control of the process and their reward is being able to take a photo, process it, and print it and know exactly how it will turn out. There are also professionals that need to have a print turn out the same every time. I'm neither of those, but if you are, use stop bath.
Even the worst photo processing places treat their water before using it, there is a reason for that.
I wouldn't. Chemicals used for paper always end up with a lot of junk in them from being used in trays, like bits of paper, that you don't want adhering to your film.Quote:
I currently use it for print processing, but is it OK to use the same stop bath for print and film processing?