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Here's one negative scanned as positive. The markings/blotches and fog are strongest on the area where negative is attached to quickload's flap.
However these blotches are everywhere. They're just much stronger on that area.
Attachment 64236
Yesterday I developed six sheets. Some of them have these markings, some are in perfect shape.
I did them in two batches. Three in D-76 1+1 and three in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100. Similar results.
I had one unexposed quickload sheet.
The sheet was from same box than all sheets with blotches. It was stored along with others and I carried it during my two month trip with other sheets.
Now I took a test photo using that one remaining sheet. I also took test shots to fresh single sheet Acros.
Then I developed the test quickload, one quickload (exposed during trip) and two fresh single sheets. All in the same time, in Paterson Orbital.
All were fine except the one exposed during my Japan trip.
If the cause is freezer burn, how come that all sheets aren't affected similary. But most (all developed so far) has same kind of defect?
OH did you happen to go through an x-ray machine on your trip? Uh oh..... :/Quote:
Originally Posted by Usagi
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
I kept films with me. Ofcourse there's always security scan, but it should be safe up to iso 1600.
My tmy2 sheets are fine, like fomapan 200, ektar 100 and e100g also. Even velvia 100f quick loads (expired) are fine.
Only those acros quick loads has problems.
I really like quick loads and acros, but this is (or was, as I have developed almost all sheets) a bit alerting.
Well I know they SAY it SHOULD be fine, yet when I did my kodachrome trip in 2010 the K64 film that went through the x-ray machine had a noticeable fog layer vs the stuff that didn't, and the one IN my camera had some very strange banding lines, but only on the roll that was in the camera at the time, so perhaps this quick load was already loaded in the holder making it more susceptible? Just a thought. Anyway hope Ilford can explain it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Usagi
I was going to ask the same question as to Xray contamination. It could be very possible that that's exactly what happened. Fuji is usually pretty darn good in the QC department and you don't hear many complaints from customers about their products. Two words I use less and less as I get older are "shouldn't" and "never". Just as you think something shouldn't happen it does and when something is never suppose to happen it will! JohnWQuote:
Originally Posted by Usagi
i had something similar happen to me on fomapan but for 120mm i don't know if it applies... and once with fuji acros 100 (120 again) i think... If i remember correctly it happened when i did vigorous shaking the first 30 sec or so. In reading about this problem... others mentioned fomapan doing this over several blogs... They also mentioned the stop bath possibly being a problem.. but it's not so... cause i have never used anything other than water. I think perhaps it is air bubbles... I now use the turning rod provided with the patterson tanks. I haven't encountered this problem since.
Also if you wet the film before developer- i no longer do this (fuji says its unnecessary)- this might also contribute to it (the formation of 'spotting) for some reason, maybe saturating the film with water making it harder for the developer to take effect in some areas.
PE is pretty adamant about the pre-soak thing, and I tend to think he knows what he's talking about LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by mesantacruz
I also agitate for a whole minute, relatively vigorously, with no issues like this.
Could be, but I've just never seen it except with x-rays or film that leaked moisture, frozen crystals etc.
So far perhaps best guess is leaked moisture or frozen crystals..
I have to investigate this a bit, although I don't have Acros quickloads any more and it's no longer in the production.
You can experiment with any film, just take a clipping from a piece of film, put it in a plastic bag (ziplock) with a but of moisture in the bag (but not on the film, like take a piece of wet bread and put it next to the film (do this all in the dark room/ dark bag), then put it on a dark box (like an empty LF box) and leave it in a hot place for 30 minutes, like on top of a radiator or heat vent, then put that immediately in the freezer for 3 days. Take it out, shoot it, and see if the same effect is there. Theoretically this should work, I've never purposefully done this of course. But I've seen results like that on films that I put in the fridge where the seal on the can was not tight and so I assumed the moisture was the cause since it was only from the cans with loose tape. Now I re-tape everything and put it all in sealed plastic...Quote:
Originally Posted by Usagi
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
