I'm using Peter Carter's method of the weak hypo solution so hopefully it'll work out more consistent for me in the Pan-X trials.
I'll try and check out Monobath Manual, too. Regards, Mr Datsun.
Johnielvis, I could not have said it better myself.
If I understand, your use of ferricyanide bleach is a way of fixing things if the end image is too dark. But my question is how to get the correct image balance in the first place without resorting to hypo or the use of ferricyanide bleach? I have not got there yet although your observation of keeping the development time to under 10 minutes is one I will take note of. Other factors in getting to the right final image seem to be nebulous. Correct kind of developer, correct dilution, correct temperature and correct dev time. From where I am it still appears to be a trial and error process – especially if as your say there is no single solution for all films! At the moment I can only go on other people's methods - especially those who have shown evidence of success and who have documented their process.
Yes I will try and get to read the Grant Milford Haist book but it is long out of print. Any PDFs around?
No, I'm not adding hypo to my Tri-X tests - as I have said here a few times – it was not working for me. It did work for others.
But I'm not complaining as you seem to be implying – I just want to get the best results I can, understand how to do that and learn about the process along the way. I've worked some on Tri-X, enjoyed it, learnt quite a bit and now I am now testing Adox Pan-X with D19 with hypo to see what i can do with that.
And yes, I am adding hypo to Pan-X as the image had a grey veil on top of a strong black image – very unlike the Tri-X thin greyness. The hypo in this case made the image come alive.
Johnielvis, can you explain your "10 min theory" ?
If the problem is that the developer will start to fog at this point, then that's what we want! All that fog will be bleached away and we will get a lighter image in the end. Am I getting it wrong ?