Blue Tone Blues
So I ran across something unique to me this past couple of weeks.
I am enthralled with the solarization process as some may know and I have been printing a slew of new images, where I flash the negative and flash the positive.
So I am at the printing stage and moving along quite nicely with about three full days of printing.
I decide to tone sepia, selenium and Iron Blue, which I have had much success before.
This time I decided I wanted more browns in the highlights which meant more bleach time then sepia.. So two days of toning bleach sepia ,, then adding selenium... So far so good.
Now I do my usually blue toner for two minutes and then wash out the yellow stain to completion, this takes a complete day to do.
Well to my surprise no visible change, prints look like the prints with only sepia and selenium..
No blue .... What happened... I know the answer but would like to hear some responses .. this is a quiz and the answer is obvious . Hint .. I did add blue and even if I try again it will not work.
I don't know the answer as I've never used blue, but I would love to see some pictures!
I would say that the blue toner does not react with the silver-selenium compound, which is chemically more stable than other silver compounds.
I much prefer multiple-guess quizzes.
As per usual, anything to do with toning whatsoever in any way shape or form the correct answer is
...Get out any of the books written by Dr.Tim Rudman, the correct answer will, invariably be in there
Simon ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :
Wild and fairly ignorant guess? The longer bleach time allowed so much sepia and selenium conversion that there were too few unconverted salts to react to the blue toner? (Dimly remembered from Rudman's toning book....best thing ever written on the subject. AND, if I'm wrong it's not his fault...I just didn't remember correctly. ;)
The prize goes to Jovo
I let the bleach sink into the midtones rather than my usual highlight only for sepia.
Yellow and Blue are complementary colours and therefore have the effect of neutralizing each other so no effect is seen.
The order is critical beacuse once selenium toned it's harder to bleach the print for blue or any other toning.
I have done this but back in the late 1970's into the late 780's. My preferred blue toner was to use a dye coupler in a colour redeveloper, this was what the late Bob Carlos Clarke did for other colours as well, it's worth seeing his book Dark Summer. For some reason Tim Rudman didn't include Dye coupled toners in his books.
I know I probably asked you this in the past Ian so be kind, could you elaborate on how one does this.. I have seen some samples of Bob Carlos Clarke did and they were striking.
In my case I think that I am going to bleach the prints , to raise the highlights, then fix and wash as normal , then try the tri tone, with solarization(sabatier) I think the highlights are too close to the midtones and I need to separate them a bit.. The whole process of flashing during development basically forces all the tones to go to the mid points and this is a problem separating colours out.
Would a postassium ferri dilution work well for this??
Originally Posted by Ian Grant