Nice job, thanks!
Here are the 3 images side by side for easier comparing:
Attachment 708431+100 Attachment 708441+25 Attachment 708451+25 with salt Attachment 70847 1+100 with Salt
It is possible that the sun was gone in image #3 (with Salt)? I don't see the shadow of the ladder anymore.
If you used the same exposure time, then this could explain the darker image.
Are you planning on printing the images in an identical way?
. . . So there you have it. The results of the 4 tests were quite surprising for me. It would seem that none of the four methods had any real effect on grain size, clustering or sharpness. However they (to my eyes), fall into two distinct groups as far as contrast is concerned. Both the standard 1:25 and 1:100 appear to make similar images, maybe a factor of wildly different dilutions but offset by wildly different times. The same could be said of the salt solutions, however the longer period of the 1:100 Salt seems to effect the longevity of the salt itself?
So in summary and based on pixel peeping only at the moment, my money is on the 1:100 Salt.
I've also done a video of this test process and will be uploading it to my Youtube channel and will put the link on this thread when ready. I will also be posting the test on my Blog at www.streetphotographyblog.co.uk
Cheers Bert. I hope the results were helpful?
Yes, the next step is to make a print of each, though it might be a few days until I get round to it.
Hey Ming Rider, the problem I see with judging the contrast difference you see is that it is a fully adjustable characteristic, it can be matched across all 4 development regimes by adjusting say the time a bit.
The difference is effectively irrelevant, the adjustment to fix that contrast difference is simply part the normal refinements we all do. It is not an inherent difference.
Good intel here. I'd like to know what you mixed these chems with (distil water, kosher salt/sea salt/..quantity....etc).....
Where's the "notes"?
Great work thus far! I've some HP5+ that I'd love to run thru the 1:100+salt-regime
I've watched this thread continually pop up, read a post or 2, and moved on. It seems a continuing saga of experiments to make Rodinal palatable. Now I see added salt is one of the tricks to make this grain factory workable. It's always about the grain with this potion, isn't it? So now it seems that high dilution and salt is another way of trying to make Microdol out of this developer. To which I can only question. why not just use Microdol (or Perceptol)? Maybe I'm getting old and have fewer days, so to me, life's too short to make a bad developer work.
^Because one might use HC-110 for one film, Diafine for another, Rodinal for a third....why's one need to buy a fourth dev when one can use all three aformentioned to almost 99% of what's needed.....I think this thread is trying to find that last 1% (for me at least....)
The evil grain needs a lot less agitation. All your tests were constant agitation which explains the constant grain results.
Stand development will get you the finest grain (no agitation) but can suffer from bromide drag and low contrast. What rodinal loves is gentle periodic agitation, like a gentle swish you would give a fine wine. Somewhere between stand and 1 minute cycles with only about 5 seconds in duration. Agitate more often for greater contrast and less for minimal grain. It's a balance.
Or use a fine-grain film. Of course it's grainy with HP5.
Originally Posted by Tom1956
Acros, TMX, Pan-F and Efke-25 are all awesome in Rodinal.
Good point. I shoot mainly on the Street and did use FP4+. However, with our typical British climate (cloudy) and my preference for Zone Focussing, I ran into problems with achieving a workable DOF.
Originally Posted by polyglot
Most of my subject matter exhibits the annoying tendency to move. Further, they have a nasty habit of not keeping a consistant distance from the lens from subject to subject. :D
Unable as I am to focus and adjust metering and aperture for each shot (the shot would be gone), I have to set the camera for between 250th - 500th and an aperture of around f/8 - f/11. This gives me a zone of approximately 15 -30ft.
With FP4+ and the low light, I could only achieve between 60th - 125th, not enough to freeze the movement sufficiently, whilst maintaining a workable DOF.
Now with HP5+, I can shoot at 250th - 500th (1000th on a really good day) and still keep the DOF, thereby seeing the shot, raising the camera and shooting in a second.
Happy times. :)