I did post something similar to this sometime ago but I wanted to ask about presoak times. For a long time I am using distilled water when I use the developer. I use T-Max 400 film in formats from 35 mm to 8x10 processed in a Jobo CPP2. I generally give it one minute Pre-soak. Kodak told me all their developers are designed to work with filtered tap water, which I do have. I was getting some "Motteling" but I have not resolved that problem. Could I possibly use a 1 1/2 to 2 minute presoak and how would it effect the film? The motteling is on all formats and it follows the rotation of the Jobo drum. The emulsion IS ON THE INSIDE as it should be. It can be seen only on contact prints and enlargements and of course it happens in super clear skies without clouds. Some images can not be taken again. Any help is appreciated!
This has been discussed many times here. But for my part, I have never done this and don't see the need to do it.
I use a 5 minute pre-soak, when using my Jobo, using distilled water. I believe it was a Jobo recommendation.
For tanks, I don't use a pre-soak, unless I'm using a large tank (4-120/8-35mm). I do this to avoid streaking caused by the amount of time it takes to pour the developer in to the larger tanks.
The OP didn't specify which developer he's using.
The only times I've found pre-soaking to be desirable:
EP-2 print processing - I got streaking if I didn't presoak.
Two-bath developers - I find I get more consistent results if I presoak. (Not entirely sure I should, but that's my habit at least.)
Ilford advise not to presoak their Delta 400 prior to development and I never do. With any other B&W film I will always presoak.
It'd be useful if you posted a scan of the problem. I had a streaking problem on a few 8x10 sheets that I rolled in a Jobo. Photo Engineer said it might be lack of pre soak, or it might be due to using water as a stop bath rather than acid stop. Since then I've always done a pre soak and used acid stop and had clean film with no marks. This is HP5 in Rodinal.
I hadn't noticed this statement so ignorance was bliss for me as I pre-soaked TMax 400 for a full 5 mins to rid the film of the dye when using Xtol. The pre-soak rid the film of the dye very successfully and I didn't notice any problems with using a pre-soak as part of the development process.
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
The water in the OP's location may hold the key rather than whether a pre-soak or not is used