Chinese Amidol Analysis

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JLP

Thomas, you have obviously not been following the thread about a lot of happy new Chamonix camera owners on the LF forum. There's a lot of fine gear coming out of China, some far superior to what is made in the US.

That put aside, i use the Chinese Amidol and yes, it needs a little extra time in preparation but is working just as it is supposed to do. Lot's of contrast control with a water bath.

Merry Christmas everyone.

jan

---

Chamonix camera's are good. "Far superior" to a US, or quality camera from some other country? Nah, perhaps "as good as a _____" or "really good for the money" but "far superior" would be a stretch. Thats about as accurate as saying all Chinese products are substandard. My Fotoman is a really good product for the money, but it is definitely not a Horseman or a Linhof.

Iron in a developer, particularly for a chloride emulsion can cause black spots that sometimes are large and sometimes can only be seen with a loupe.

Tin in a developer will cause fog. It is used as the E6 fogging agent in the reversal bath.

I hope no one has problems with this material.

PE

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson

I don't think anybody is surprised anymore when poor quality product comes out of China. I dodge it unless it's a Holga camera. It's supposed to suck. :)

Like John says, it is a pity if it's not usable. I saw a posting of Jim Galli in the galleries that was printed with that Amidol, and it appeared as if he had to jump through both one and two hoops to get to what he needed, but it was usable to him.

- Thomas

---

The Chinese Amidol works fine for me - the price was certainly right! I don't mind filtering the working developer solution.

And BTW, I love my 4X5 Shen Hao.

Nobody mentioned the 'good old stuff' from Artcraft Chemicals that comes from the UK per owner Mike Jacobson. I have been using Artcrafts' Amidol for about a year with no mixing issues and superior prints. You are right about cost but the old adage 'you get what you pay for' comes to mind. Just a thought and another option to the available Chinese variety.

All right, all right. Some products coming out of China are good, same as everywhere else. I was more referring to the troubles I have seen personally and what's been reported in the press.

It's all the 'cutting corners' that keeps surprising and baffling me. Forgive me for being biased. I've just had a lot of bad experience with Chinese products.

- Thomas

Thomas, if there is a lot of bad press, problems with lead in toys, problems with the date rape drug on children's beads (what the hell's up with that one?) and many environmental concerns, perhaps it isn't you. If your direct experience is negative, then you have a valid concern and China has a large problem. Unfortunately, until there are real consequences for this national behavior, don't look for any substantive changes. tim

Can we stick to the issue of amidol and leave Chinese domestic policy and problems with other Chinese products for the SoapBox?

FWIW, I have occasionally had pink staining on prints using Artcraft Amidol, and on a variety of papers, not just one specific brand or type. When it happens, its always on the first, second, and sometimes third print to be developed after mixing the solution. Not being a chemist, I cannot explain why this happens, nor will I try to. Once one or two prints have been developed, everything settles down and works fine.

Doesn't happen every time, just occasionally.

Alex;

You may be using up or absorbing some contaminant. IDK, but I have had that before in some situataions where a photo active ingredient is present at a very low concentration and is used up.

PE

With the amidol situation as it is, it sounds like there might be a couple of things to do in general. Since it is mixed once per session, these precautions might be in order and I guess I'll be doing them each time I use some. Anyone care to add to this list of remedies?

First : strain the developer once it is mixed, coffee filter, paper towel, napkin or whatever seems to be fairly fine, easy and cheap to use
Second: take an unexposed sheet of sacrificial paper (cheap again, not first quality) and dunk it in the developer for a couple of minutes, then toss
Third: make prints