After all of the discussion about my cheap, misguided effort to determine film speed, I checked E-Bay as I do every lunch hour. Lo and behold, there was a Beseler PM2M "analog densitometer" being offered with a minimum bid of $60 and no bidders yet. Loer and beholder, two hours later, it was mine!
Now, the question remains: Can it do what I want it to do? Can it tell me if I've got a density of 0.11 over film base and fog?
Rob, who has a whole bunch of stuff waiting to be put out on E-Bay. Anybody want a Rodenstock Rodagon 135-mm f5.6 lens? New style, immaculate glass, very slight dent in the filter ring.
Well, you bought what was a very nice color analyzer in its day, not a densitometer.
You can calibrate it to do B&W, and those modules can be configured as presets for your favorite color or B&W tones, but it won't give you standard density readings.
One caveat that usually applies to analyzers of that vintage (I have a less fancy one)--don't turn it on with the roomlights on or you can damage the sensor. It should only be turned on in the darkroom under enlarger light.
If it doesn't come with a manual, you may be able to get a photocopy from Beseler (or whoever owns them now) or from www.craigcamera.com.
If you really have no use for such a thing, Columbus Camera should be able to nullify the sale, since they made an error in the listing, and I've had good dealings with them in the past. On the other hand, it's not a bad color analyzer for $60.
I'm glad I've used buy it now on a Ilford EM-10 - you could have purchased it (-:
I don't know how good a densitometer it is - but from what I saw in the NET, it should allow for exposure time determination (at least a near figure) and choice of paper grade (so, poor man densitometer) using an auxiliary nomograph curve.
Let's wait and see.
was that by any chance my posts you read on that other site? ;)
No, but if you can give me a pointer I would like very much to see it.
You article is very clear on what one can use the EM-10 for.
I believe it was this APUG thread that arose my interest in a possible inexpensive way to save paper, so I went to Ebay and there was this EM-10 on auction.
I did a Google search and found on this first page this Polish site, and due to my knowledge of Polish I downloaded an English document: (-:
Nice explanation on how to use the EM-10
Printed it, studied the graph, made sure the salesperson would ship internationally and bingo - buy it now - $23 incl. shipping...
I usually wait to the end of an auction - I'm a proud sniper, but sometimes making sure one get the goods is worth more than a few dollars.
Thanks for the link, Jorge!
My graph was hand-drawn, and my emphasis was a bit different: Everything is based on 10s exposure with very light gray (zone VIIŻ?) placed at a reading of 85 or thereabouts. I then read midtone and shadow: Midtone to select the paper type, shadow to select the grade. Then dial in filtration, adjust aperture and ND filtration to put the very light gray back where it belongs.
I also have readings of a projected Stouffer grayscale, and prints at 10s on more than 20 paper/grade combinations...
I used one for years for this purpose. I had a set of negatives that had been calibrated for me and this allowed compare. There was no way to get a specific numberical value, but it was getting me in the ballpark /
A neat little trick that I learned to do that is to get a .10 density filter from Kodak and with a spot meter on a tripod aim it at a constant light source and taking a unexposed DEVELOPED neg with the 010 filter sandwiched on it make a reading. there is your .010 above fb+fog. It is great for finding a working speed for your film doing the zone one test. A bit crude yes but it will bring you very close to where you need to be for a fraction of the cost and a real time saver due to the simplicity factor.