i have been kicking around the idea of trying out a new film developer - and settled on d-23. i have been to the unblinkingeye and read joe lipka's article, and
think as soon as tuesday rolls around, i might be buying some chemistry.
any suggestions or things to look out for when using it with both roll and sheet film? does anyone use it without the borax bath? i've never done a 2 bath developer and wasn't sure if i should start out "undivided" and then try it "divided". i have read that it is a low-contrast developer and it is hard to overdevelop film using d-23 ... is this true?
what is your experience using it?
much thanks in advance!
Thanks for checking out the article. I have used D-23, divided since 1991. Be careful, the times I posted in the article were for sheet film to be used for contact printing pt/pd negatives, so the results will give you a dense negative. You can print it on silver paper and I have done so, but with a 1/2 or 1 variable contrast filter.
I have not used it with small format film.
I use D23 diluted 1:1 as my standard developer for TMAX-100. I get good results and good highlight control. I use it for both 120 roll and sheet film.
I usually rotary process in my Jobo 20 C for 12minutes or small tank for 14 minutes.
I have also used it with Agfapan APX-100 with equally good results.
There are a number of adantages of using D-23, it is cheap, can be made up when needed or you can make slight variations, like adding 2 grams of borax to make D76H, or use it as a divided developer.
A good discussion on D23 can be found at http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/D23.html
I've used divided D 23 as well with very good results. I was using the recipe and procedure that Barry Thornton wrote about in 'Edge of Darkness' if i remember correctly. It will give you nice tones and highlights, and the working solutions last quite some time. I would still be using it now, but I find that I like the results I get from PCat HD in roll film. I have not used D23 for sheet films. Good Luck!
This is an easy to mix and easy to use developer but not a very good one IMHO. The hight sulfite content smooths the edges off the grain leading to fine grain but not very sharp images.
D23 and D76 have the same sulfite content (100 grams/liter), and I have developed TMX-100 in both D23 and D76 diluted 1:1 and cannot see any difference in sharpness. Diluting 1:1 effectively halfs the sulfite content.
D23 and D76 have the same sulfite content (100 grams/liter), and I have developed TMX-100 in both D23 and D76 diluted 1:1 and cannot see any difference in sharpness. Diluting 1:1 effectively halfs the sulfite content. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >
Sometime try Tri-X, HP5+ or FP4+ in one of the pyro formulae. You might see a big difference in sharpness
I am a firm pyromaniac. My main films are FP4 HP5 and now Classic Pan 200. But they are not avilable as Readyloads :(
My main developer was XTOL, but changed when Kodak dumped the 1 liter pack. I never experienced the dreaded XTOL failure, but 5 liters is way too much developer to have sitting around. So experimented with TMX and a bunch of developers including Pyro, D76, Rodinal, DDX, D23 and settled on D23 1:1.
thanks for your input :)
i have another question ..
did you use D-23 with or without the second bath?
will the same results come from adding the borax into the main developer ..
I have only used D-23 diluted 1:1. The purpose of the second bath is to allow shadow density to build without impacting the highlights. The theory is the highlight density builds up in the developer and exhausts itself. Placing the film in a bath of borax or metaborate allows development to continue in the shadow area.
Adding the borax to D-23 really converts it to a variant of D76 called D76H and you would loose the compensating effect.
I have tried divided development in the past, I used divided D76 and while it worked OK I saw at least a full stop in film speed. I used this when photographing the inside of church buildings which had a very wide contrast range.
Hope this helps