Use what you love and love what you use.
Have fun and enjoy your work.
And you are right on about the subjectivity of the differences. We can all go on and on and on with suggestions, etc. but the real test is what you want and are you getting the results you like.
Thanks Ann. This probably also means I'll spend a fortune trying out different kinds of film and developer, as well as film + developer combinations. ;)
Well, maybe, maybe not. As I am sure you are already aware there is no "magic bullet". However, that does not mean that we all don't try to find one (myself included).
i am also sure you have already been given the advice to stick with one combination until you really understand the results and how to control your materials. This includes the printing processes as well. However, you will probably (maybe or maybe not) reach a point were you are ready to try different options to create a different vision. When you reach that point just remember there are at least 10 different answers to one question answered by 5 "experts". Take it slow and test for yourself as the variables are huge and others can only share their experiences, altho valued they are not your experience.
In regard to HC-110: I don't know what time frame you have in mind, but the concentrate we have today is definitely less viscous than the HC-110 of twenty or twenty-five years ago. Incidentally, it has also lost the strong odor of the earlier stuff. Does anyone else remember the incredibly putrid smell it had back in the seventies or early eighties?
You're absolutely correct about diluting directly from the concentrate. I don't know if it really makes any difference, but I shake and swirl the concentrate a little just before pouring out the small quantitiy for mixing. Stuck to a darkroom cabinet, I also have a small laminated card listing the various dilutions.
I much prefer T-Max developer for T-100 and T-400, but if you were forced to limit yourself to only one developer for almost any kind of film, the HC-110 would serve well.
One other thing that may be important to reducing air bells is to load an empty reel in first on the bottom and then place the reel with the film on top. Then you have to have a full tank. I use metal reels and tanks and have used this method for many years. No air bells at all.
Oh, with regards to mixing 1:31 use a pipette or some sort of measuring device that is more accurate than just "eye-balling" it. 1:31 is much more frugal in the long run than the way Kodak wants you to mix it.
I am referring to the past year. my subconscience may have been aware longer, but ?????/ :o
Definetly see a difference than years ago.
We mix 1:31 using a small ml beaker and rinse carefully until clean. THe basic solution is left in the orginal container. Mixing as Kodak suggest would speed up the oxidation process. Or at least in my mind.
I agree. In addidion, doing as per Kodak is also just an extra unnecessary step.
I suggest trying the FP4 again in the HC-110. I just developed my first roll tonight in this stuff and it looks phenomenal. Will try to post a shot in the gallery to show you what mine look like.
used to use pyrocat but had a bad physical reaction to it from contact on my skin :(
Posted to the non-gallery photos.
Air bells are pretty normal for one's first roll. We have our personal ways of preventing them. Mine is pretty standard: As soon as the developer is in the tank, I rap the tank quite hard onto a couple of layers of towel on the bathroom floor, four or five times. Then my first one minute of agitation is constant and quite vigorous.
I have never worried about having half a tank if doing only one roll, but one must be aware that inversion in such a case is going to amount to quite vigorous agitation compared to a nearly full tank.