For the past year I have been using PMK with 120 roll film. Have liked the results with no problems; using Gordon's directions exactly. Developer from the Formulary in liquid form.
Agitation is per instruction; every 15 seconds always in a different direction.
In the past two days i have developed several tanks of various films and decided to for go re-development as suggested by many on this board.
The staining is not even. So the question becomes;
anyone else have these problems; past or present
The portions that have no stain, have detail and appear to have been developed, looking like any other negative.
Nothing has changed in terms of technique other than leaving out the re-development; same agitation , distilled water, temperature at 70.
Any thoughts from long time users.
My concern of course, is to not repeat this, and wondering what is going to appear with the printing process.
I don't do the afterbath and haven't had an uneven staining problem. The only times I've had uneven staining has been extra edge density as a result of not using enough solution.
What kind of uneveness are you getting, and does it show up in prints or contact sheets?
The uneveness appears at various places on random negatives. There is no particular pattern. Some are in the middle of the negative, not really an edge factor coming into play. It isn't even a streak pattern, more like patches.
I have not made contact prints or even started to make any prints.
I usually do not print current work for at least 7 or 8 months and even longer. But will make change my patttern to check these out.
I have seen this with PMK several times. I wonder if the Part B is too old. I had that happen and I made a new batch of B and the issue went away. Like David I quit resoaking in spent developer maybe 2 years ago. I have had the problem since I quit using the resoak.
Do you fill the tank in the normal way through the daylight cap? That could be an issue. Try filling the tank in the dark and then immersing the reel(s) in it before putting the cap on and turning on the lights. I do this with my Nikor 4x5" tank with PMK, since it's pretty slow filling. I think it's okay to proceed with the lights on after the initial fill, since the developer is pretty spent by the time you're ready to dump it.
A presoak might be another thought.
That was my very thought. I have always just dumped rather than dip the film into the tank. Never with any problems;however, .........
I will try another roll and dip rather than pour, and that will element that variable. If it continues i may need to think about Lee's suggestion.
Have recently got a trial pack of Pryocat-hd, but didn't want to switch developers in the middle of a run. Have 16 more rolls to develop from the same shoot and wanted to finish with the same developer.
I have to concur with Lee. I don't use an afterbath and I mix up the "B" solution (6 gm sodium metaborate/liter) fresh each session and haven't had problems since. The following is a snipet of email I received from Carl Weese: "I think the number one culprit for bad PMK results is bad bottles of "B" solution, whoever/wherever they were mixed. After that, persistent
problems look to me more and more like water supply. And it might not
help to use distilled for the developer, because the water throughout
the process including wash is affecting the stain."
David, what did you mean by "has been extra edge density as a result of not using enough solution"? Total solution? I recently got a bunch of edge density (4 sheets 8x10/2 liters) but attributed to 1) trying a higher temp than normal and/or 2) they were doing lots of plumbing work in the building I rent darkroom space in and all sorts of stuff was coming out of the faucet. But now that I think about it, the best negatives I ever got was up at Carl's with fresh "B" and 3 liters/6 sheets.
If you don't have a scale G. Hutchins recommends starting with 760ml of water and adding sodium sulfite till the solution level reaches 1 liter. That will make a super saturate of Part B.
I totally misstated this. I should have said sodium metaborate NOT sodium sulfite. G. Hutchins says 850ml of water and pour in the metaborate to reach 1 liter. I just mixed some this afternoon and did it by the book. Will know tomorrow.
sorry for the confusion,
well, i certainly have bulk chemcials on hand to mix solution B. Is there any problems with using a liquid form of A and a home brew of B?
I hate to run the rolls on hand , but may go out and run a roll of film on the tree across the street for a test.
There is no problem as this is how the liquid that you bought is made. You can test it by mixing 5ml of A and 10ml of B in a tube with 500ml of water and if the mixture turns a nice yellow it is good. Brown I would not trust. But if you are hesitant, run a test. The neg from that print I sent you was made using the method I just described in the above post.