I bought some 130 years ago from the Formulary but oddly enough didn't get around to mixing it up. I wonder if the powder is still good? We're talking 1998 here.
Be that as it may, the limitation to me always seemed the price. It may last forever, but it sure is expensive, at least when bought from the Formulary. Probably mixed yourself (but don't you have to get glycin from the Formulary too?) it's less so, but that's a hassle I don't need.
We are talking the one that PF sells as F130, correct? This one:
LPD has been readily available, much cheaper, and lasted long enough but I might try 130.
Years ago a friend used a developer called Printofine later renamed Posifine, made by the Acufine/Diafine people. I tried it and didn't care for it - a bit warm and low contrast for my taste IIRC, but it did last even longer than LPD. I don't think it's available any longer though.
that's the stuff !
its expensive but some say worth every penny ..
( i have used it to process film for the past 10? years )
the formulary is the only place left to make glycin,
so you might have to get some more before you mix it up ..
(the glycin might be bad if you didn't freeze it, and its not white and fluffy ... )
I think 130 is expensive the way Pyrocat is expensive - it only seems like it until you realize exactly how many prints you get out of a batch. A set of Pyrocat HD 500ml bottles is about $20 from Bostick & Sullivan, which sounds expensive compared to say D-76, but don't forget that you use it at extremely small dilutions - 1:1:100 is my normal mix. With 130, you mix a quart of working stock, dilute it 1:3 which makes a gallon, and as I said before, you can get several dozen 8x10 prints and a bunch of 16x20s out of a single mix, and it won't go bad on you no matter how slow you are in using it. The stuff can oxidize until it is black as tar, but it will still work. Think about how many batches of Dektol you'd have to mix in order to make the same number of prints in the same period of time. You'd have to make 3-4 times as much Dektol, at which point the money would be a net wash, and you'd still have to tone your prints to get rid of the Dektol green tone from the bromides.
One more little horn toot for LPD. You talk about economy.
As replenished, you use 300ml of replenisher per 30 8x10 prints. There's a gallon of replenisher with each kit, and 300ml fits about 13 times into a gallon. 13x30 = 390. That's how many prints you get out of a gallon kit of Ethol LPD. For a ten dollar can of powder. Not bad. That's in round number three pennies per print.
And it does last for at least six months. I always use it up before that, so I can't tell if it would last a year or not.
Roger: Glycin doesn't keep well as a powder. However, you could get some fresh glycin and use the rest of the ingredients, most likely.
Glycin apparently keeps well when frozen. I tend to just buy 100 grams of it at a time and mix up 9 litres of stock (which uses up 99 grams of it). That gives me a gram worth of waste as you always lose a little in the process.
Calumet shows it in stock. Since I can no longer obtain Zone VI print developer, I am looking for a substitute. Thought I might try some Ultra Black.
Originally Posted by PDH
Gee, that's really a long time ago! I love the English language.:)
Originally Posted by Roger Cole
No one's using LPD?
Do an APUG search and check out this time and tested, general use developer for paper. It keeps forever in its can, and in the tray. I've got 10, one gallon cans on the shelf amongst others.
Several people have named it in this thread.
Originally Posted by yankeesnapper
I've just tried DS-14 on Ilford MGIV RC paper. I'm using phenidone(0.2g/L) to substitute Dimezone S(0.2g/L). It take about 4 minutes to finish development. It's quite warmth. May be I should reduce KBr concentration to reduce the warm tone effect. I wonder why it takes so long to finish the development. Any suggestion? Thanks.
Originally Posted by Gerald C Koch