I've noticed Tri X n Plus X are thinner films than the TMax films and is very curley as well. What I don't like about plastic reels, they tend to get dirty over the years with caked on crud in the channels. I use SS reels n never have any issues loading TMax on em.
Well, the strange thing is that both the Tri X and Plus-x film i've shot are flat as pancakes after they have developed. Even this pitbull of a roll was 100% flat after developing and drying, strange stuff =)
Just to sum up a bit; The film had several damaged frames, not scrached, but folding damages(?) where the film folded during the fight to get it on the reel.
Luckily I often did two shots of she scene because I had some toubles measuring the light, so I had "backup" frames.
Here's one that made it :)
One of my reels (used for 35mm) has some beginning gunk going on, tried soaking the reel in water over night, and that got some of it off, but I'll probably need to to some mechanical work on it to get it off completely.
I've seen yellowish reels as well, no idea how they become like this, mine are still white and the 35mm one has been used for 4-5 years now, but I always clean everything thoroughly and let soak for a day or two after use.
old toothbrush works great
I just ruined 2 rolls of Tri X 120 trying to load them onto a paterson reel, it is impossibly curly! It was not cold and not old, brand new film. Never again, never had any problems with Fomapan or Adox or Ilford......:(
That is bad @$$. Never thought about that. Canon Elan 7NE has an option to leave the leader out when it is done winding. That's genius. So simple. Fortunately/unfortunately 35mm is not my main film and hasn't really consistently been a problem. Medium format is the pain in the butt film.
Originally Posted by Rick A
How did that turn out? I always get semicircle dents in my Acros after struggling with it for awhile. It makes the situation turn into a downward spiral. The longer I struggle with it the higher the dent count. Which upsets me so I screw up more and make more dents :(
Originally Posted by mablo
This really sucks because I go weeks with nothing but good luck. Then I hit a snag with a roll and break out into a cold sweat. Half an hour jiggling a Patterson reel in a dark bag... ridiculous.
The current Kodak film base seems to shed dust very well, but it also seems to curl very badly. I have the same problems described above. The humidity h ere seldom gets above 50%, and indoor humidity during the winter can be very low. Kodak films are often too curly to scan properly. (120 is a lot better than 35mm.) Loading onto development reels is a very trying thing. I thought it was just me, but now I see others are having the same problems.
I've noticed my tmax curling real bad in 120. I'll shoot a roll of Delta and a roll of tmax and the Delta comes out flat the tmax curls into straws. I can barely scan them. All shot and dev'd at the same time.
Nobody suggested it yet, so I will.
Why not just switch to the Stainless Steel reel and tank setup. As Tom B was saying, they are just not a problem to load film in any condition, any time.
The plastic reels are false economy when you look at what film costs, what your petrol costs for your vehicle, your time, etc... Costs are soon recovered with consistency and predictable results. I learned how to load the 35mm and 120 reels when I was in my teens.
Buy used ones on Ebay - they last a lifetime with very basic care.
Is this too simple to add?
I always do a Michael Jackson and wear one cotton glove, (on my right hand because I'm right-handed). At times when the film won't co-operate and I have to fu...fool around with it for a while, it's always a soft cotton glove handling it. The bare hand deals with the reel while the gloved hand coaxes the film. Never any damage to the film, even after a 15 or 20 minute battle. When it starts getting at all dirty, I throw it away. They're cheap on eBay.
Cold + Dry = Curl : Warm + Wet = Curl ( but not as bad ).
Simon. ILFORD photo / HARMAN tcehnology Limited :