No! wait.. don't throw it away... and don't use Rodinal! Neofin Blue should be most suitable, as it raises the box iso of the given film by half. Also D76 1:1 may be a help. I pushed tx400@4000 with D76 1:1 and obtained quite printable frames, but mind that Adox CHS 100 is a traditional single layer film and can be reacting to pushing process way different than Kodak Tx .
A lot of people shoot it at 200 normally, don't they? I know the slower Efke emulsions are often uprated by a stop. So it may be more like a 3-stop push---which is still, however, pretty extreme. IMHO, what you want to do is develop the film to completion while keeping fog as low as possible.
Donald Qualls's "Super Soup" recipe---basically it's HC-110 dil A mixed with Dektol stock in place of water, plus some ascorbic acid and washing soda---does this quite well with faster films, but I've never tried it with a slower single-layer film and I have no idea what would happen.
If the roll in question is of any importance, I think you should do a test roll first with whatever developing regime you want to go with.
If I had to try this I would use undiluted Ilford Microphen. In High School if film really needed a push we woulod say "Boil it in Dektol!"
This has been said before but I will say it again. No developer or developing method can produce detail where none exists.