Unfortunately the way Pacemaker Crown Graphics are constructed there's a plate in the back which is rectangular and would prevent a rotating back being used in portrait mode as it obstructs the light path, with a Pacemaker Speed Graphic this is worse as it's deeper into the body to allow for the shutter. Also I'm using parts left over from my main restoration as I bought the Super Graphic cheap just over a year ago knowing it had problems, so while I have the rotating back spare the actual focus screen holder etc is now on the restored camera
The Pacemaker and Super Graphic lens boards are the same (except for 4 raised bumps) but the Pacemake frame is about 1/4 maybe 3/8 narrower.
With either option I need to make parts, getting Super Graphic spares is hard so I'd need to make two sliders to use the lens panel, drilling it to attach the bellows would be fairly easy make the fit light tight a bit harder. If I could make some sliders then this would be the simplest.
Needs some thought :D
can you just clarify something for me...
the pacemaker rises by loosening a nut that is attached to the lens board frame that then runs up and down in a slit made in the standard frame, while the super rises by sliding the frame up in the standard and then a nut just tightens against the frame (or does it run on teeth or something)?
The Super Graphic frame uses a T shaped piece the top part (of the T) is a small panelmoves in a slit in the standard frame and the upright (part of the T is threaded and is the locking part.
could you then modify the the way the slider works on the super standard - by turning it into a simpler locking mechanism and then remove the locking screw on the pacemakers board frame (which I guess would need widening anyway)?
Originally Posted by Ian Grant
oh, would you be able to replace the screw on the pacemaker, widen the board's frame a little, with anything I suppose. and cut a small section of the speed's standard frame out so that you have a "U" shaped standard arm like I have on my home made camera? you'd get extra tilt then also
This is one of the options, shorten the existing slider rails on the Super Graphic and fix the locking screws in place then add new slider rails for the rise/fall.
However it seems more logical to make new fittings / slider knobs to lock the lens board into the frame and bolt the existing Crown/Speed Graphic bellows to the Super Graphic parts.
I like the psychodelic cameras, very 60's :D
I don't know, fitting the bellows to the super board seems like a lot of trouble... trying to get it light tight and all.
thanks, but it's a little different now - new lens and better sliding rail
I do not know exactly what you need, Ian.
For the rotating back the Super has a square bellows, the Pacemaker has a smaller rectangular bellows so you can not fit a rotating, or probably even a reversing back.
The Pacemaker only has back tilt on the lens, but can be modified to have forward tilt, or you can shoot with the camera upside down as I sometimes do and the back tilt becomes a forward tilt.
The Pacemaker has no swing, but I have seen cameras that have been modified to have that.
Front vertical shift is limited to rise but you can drop the bed and get drop, or you can again mount the camera upside down for drop.
So basically the Pacemaker either has work arounds or can be mod'ed to provide all the front movements.
When the use of the Graphic as press cameras started to wain Graflex came out with the Super which was intended to be more of a field camera. When Singer dumped Graflex, Toyo bought the rights to the super and produced it for another 10-15 years in Japan. Actually, Toyo may have been producing it all along for Graflex, I am not sure about that.
What I am trying to say is that putting a Super front end on a Pacemaker does not make a lot of sense when some light machining or even filing will get you the same results.