I promised some more pictures as I progressed so here they are:
EDIT: And they appeared in the wrong order! The second picture is some recently CNC drilled and routed parts to form the outer part of the focussing rack and the first picture is those parts glued together with the previous parts balanced on top in roughly the right place.
Screen is ready and unless urgent will be delivered in person :D
Excellent. I had better bring this bit along to see if I gave you accurate measurements!
The hardest part of a DIY camera is the bellows. Maybe you already stated, but how/where did you get the bellows?
I think the bellows are from a Sinar Norma camera (that's how they were advertised on ebay).
They are too long though. As I need the front and rear standards to get close together to fold the camera up, I cut off about 1/2" (closed measurement) from the back and will now have to re-glue them back to the plate.
I have made bellows before but the reason I'm building this camera is that I bought the bellows for not much money.
More pictures. I have cut some parts from 3mm black plastic which will eventually be made from 1/8" brass to see if it all works (it does).
Steve, from the picture I see that the front standard is quite big compared to other field camera, i'm guessing id does not fold the same way? ( as in pulling the front standard downward and closing the back on it)
Just curious :)
I have had lots of thoughts about this. The front standard is large because I have used the Sinar bellows from a mono-rail camera which do not taper as much as the bellows on most field cameras.
Because of this I am going to use the method Chamonix use which detaches the front standard from the sliding bed.
I am building a second camera with another set of bellows I have which will have the more traditional folding mechanism which I am copying from Wista.
There is a thread here with a discussion about the differences between the two cameras with some good detail pictures: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum44/1...ista-45dx.html
I can now CNC cut 1/8" brass sheet.
This might not sound like much of an achievement as CNC machines are supposed to cut metal. However, my machine was built to drill and rout printed circuit boards and has a minimum spindle speed of 7,000 RPM (goes up to 40,000 RPM).
I have found that if I use a 2.4mm diameter double fluted cutter and cut 0.5mm depth at a time, I can get a nice cut which doesn't need a lot of cleaning up.
This is good news because it means I can make all the brass pieces instead of paying someone else to do it!