Regarding using Harman's DPP, I have a bit of experience at this and can offer you some advice. I rate Harman DPP at ISO 2, and so a lens set to F11 would require, in lightly overcast daylight (such as what I experienced when doing this 2 days ago) an exposure time of 2 seconds. Bulb setting on your shutter, or a lens cap shutter, can accomplish this nicely.
In super bright summer sun, with a larger aperture, you'll need exposure times around 1/15 to 1/2 second, which not many LF shutters can accurately time. So what I do in those cases is either stop down to a very small aperture and use a 1-2 second exposure or use an ND filter to slow down the exposure until I can time it accurately by hand (2-4 second range is ideal, as it's long enough to time accurately and short enough to permit seated, posed portraits with a head brace).
Joe, are you sure that leaf shutters time exposures between 1/1 and 1/60 badly? I ask because I haven't found this to be the case, have found it very hard to time exposures in this range with a lens cap. Might your shutter(s) need overhaul(s)?
Does anyone know a good address to SLA my Compound shutter? Preferably in Europe. Or should I try itself? I'm tempted, since I have two of these with the same problem...
Originally Posted by Dan Fromm
I think I'm gonna make a simple lens board for this lens and experiment with the FKD to measure the focal distances. I'll also try the mathematical way and see what the differences will be ;-)
This the original data page of my lens: http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/...a/8-121mm.html
BTW: I'm used to use my hat as a shutter on my russian FKD camera (18x24 cm) using glass negatives. See:
I don't know of any in the Netherlands, here http://www.collection-appareils.fr/g...eparateurs.php is a list of some in France.
Bruno Lancement has a good reputation, so does Marc Nicolas and Gerard Metrot has a stellar reputation,
I wouldn't be surprised if all my mechanical leaf shutters are off at this speed range. The only one I really trust is my electronically timed Bronica ETRS, that goes up to 2 seconds. My point is that, unless you want to spend a sizable portion of your photo budget on CLAs, collecting LF lenses can be an expensive proposition, the alternative of which is to avoid the slower speeds entirely. I have yet to find a used LF leaf shutter with accurate slow speeds.
Originally Posted by Dan Fromm
Harman DPP is a harsh mistress, she demands accurate exposures. If you're used to working with compensating film developers in LF, and think you can SWAG the exposure with Harman on an inaccurate shutter, think again.
I built one such camera from a discarded Kodak that had a film opening almost the size of 4x5 film... I replaced the bellows with a fixed cone, the 170mm lens with a 90mm extra wide angle lens in a self-cocking shutter, and replaced the rollfilm back with a brass pocket lined with felt to accept a film holder. It is, quite literally, just point and shoot, and let the depth of field take care of the rest.
How did you decide what size (focal length) the cone shoot be?
Before I made the cone, I slipped a piece of white printer paper into my film holder and slid it into the pocket on the back... then I opened the lens and went into a dark room with a tiny window open. I moved the front standard back and forth until the image was in focus and then taped it down. That's how big I made the cone. The key is, don't make it more complicated than it is.
As I said before, I'm gonna use my “Schneider-Kreuznach Super-Angulon 1:8/121 #7481057 in working shutter” lens.
I just found out that this lens is made in February 1961 !!
It is much older than I thought. Even six years older than I am: I'm born on February 14th, 1967.
This lens was originally designed for 18x24 cm (about 7x9.5 inch) but I have seen reports from people stating they could get coverage for 8x10 inch without vignetted corners (stopped down and without movement I guess).
I'm gonna try to find a lens board to fit it in and test it. Haven't done that before (I'm new to this kind of LF lenses). I also need some kind of ring to lock the lens onto the board, I guess ....
have you considered just setting the lens up for hyperfocal exposures
from what i remember, schneider lists the distance + fstop on theirwebsite
so you can just use it as a fixed focus camera ...
have 2 backs .. one with ground glass ( or whatever it is you are going to view through )
and have it the same distance from the rear element as your film / paper plane...
you have 4 pegs and 2 large elastics to secure the back on it, you remove the back
slide the paper holder / film holder, secure it with elastics and you are good to go .
if you can deal with longish exposures since hyperfocal is usually stopped down a bit
that might be another option.
have fun !