I have to second what Ken said in post #5. I've had FP5+ scanned and printed digitally on RA-4 paper, and the results, at least to me, are impressive. Best of wishes with your digital work.
I'm considering at least getting the basics for film developing instead of sending it all out to the lab, so I've sent you an email to see what is hiding in the zip file.
I'll be moving to Jacksonville this coming summer. Finding a home that will allow me to build in a darkroom (probably a bedroom that adjoins the garage and shares a wall with the water pipes....we'll see). I'd really hate to be unable to make 'wet' prints, but my wife will insist that we find a way to continue to do that, so at least there won't be a conflict on that issue.
Good luck with the lightroom, Ralph. A lot of excellent work is produced there. (Geez, even Clyde Butcher makes inkjet prints. I've seen some of them, and they are terrific!)
I am trying to understand Mr. Lambrecht's enlarger height chart (thumbnail and link below). I had seen the man's name, but not who he is. NOW I know--he's the man. Ralph, you da man. Look at all the goodies on his site. Anyway, I'm not figuring out the height chart very well. I can't figure out why ther would be so many lines (curves, graphics) I get the horiz and vert axis, but not the rest of it. I'm an educated man, so anybody nudging me a little will make the light bulb in my brain flip on. This is going to be VERY useful. Thank you Mr. L.
Ooops, the thumbnail of the chard didn't copy, please go to the link and see enlarger height chart.
HTF III, an example is probably the best way to show you how the chart is used.
Let's say you've made a satisfactory exposure at a particular enlarger height and want to now make a larger print from the same negative. Before you increase the enlarge height, measure the current easel-to-lens (lensboard is close enough) distance. This is read on the horizontal scale. Now raise the head as desired for the larger print and again measure this distance, which is read on the vertical scale. Then find where the two readings intersect in the family of curves and note which of the 'ray-lines' is closest to that intersection. That 'ray-line' tells you how many stops (or fraction of a stop) to increase the original exposure time. The 'ray-lines' range from 0 (no change) to 2 (two stops), with intermediate changes shown in increments of 1/6-stop.
This will get you close enough to the new exposure, but you'll likely want to do another test strip anyway at the higher head setting to fine-tune this result. As stated on the chart, paper reciprocity can affect this new exposure.
OK. Thanks. Now that makes sense. It was all the curves (family of lines) that was throwing me. I would have pictures only 1. In other words. Mr Lambrecht had simply (not simply actually) brought a high degree of accuracy to the chart with this "family of lines". Thank you. Looks like a t-square and triangle is what I need to be using.