I don't know the OP from Adam, but I can appreciate dealing with medical bills.
Here's a small incentive to any perspective buyer: buy this kit and I'll ship you a f/4.5 12" Ilex Paragon Anastigmat for free. I've never used the lens, but I'm pretty sure it'll cover 8x10. Although not a cult lens, do a search and you'll find a lot of happy users of these Paragons.
This particular example is not perfect - the photo below was taken to accentuate the small scratches on the front element. Please believe me, they really are small and will not have a significant effect on your photos. You'll be happy with photos you take with this lens.
OK, I'm ready to double down. Not only will I toss a 12" Ilex Paragon Anastigmat into Indy's kit, Ill toss in it's little brother - a 10" Ilex Paragon Anastigmat. Decent glass, maybe just a tiny bit of internal haze; nothing to worry about. Both lenses are f/4.5 tessars, and both will produce real decent pix. Come on, load up!
Thanks Charley! I'm amazed no one has snapped this up yet! It's such a nice camera, and will do more than people expect of it!
BTW, I did find a crack in one dark slide, but I've covered it with 1" cellophane tape on both sides. The new owner can also use a black permanent marker on the tape, over the crack, for more protection. Or go to a hardware store and find a small sheet of aluminum! I've seen these at several hardware stores such as Lowes; look for a bin with brass, copper and aluminum stock of various shapes, thicknesses and lengths. Hobby Lobby may have something that can be used. Not really an issue, unless you intend to take more than 9 pix on an outing. Even then, you can use a changing bag to swap out exposed film for new and bypass the cracked dark slide altogether.
One person did ask about the film, so I'm mention it again. If I remember correctly (a surgery gone bad damaged my memory), it's 100 ASA Arista B&W film, 8" x 10". You can cut it in half for use with the 4" x 5" back I made, but you'll have to buy 4" x 5" holders, as none come with this kit. I'm not sure of the expiration date, but I'm pretty confident it's been refrigerated its whole life.
Well, maybe another lens will make the sale!! Indy needs a new catalytic converter!!!
Someone should buy this--then swap me for a kick a$$ Mamiya TLR kit. I would buy it but am cash poor.
Man this is a sweet deal! And it would help someone in a bind. If I didn't already have an 8x10 that has been neglected the last few months I would be all over this! Sigh...
Hope your health improves and you get some funds to pay the "big brother"!!!
Wow, I am late to this news just browsing the forum today and I can't believe this deal has not yet been sealed! I am in the market for an affordable 8x10 camera system and I think I am seriously interested in this system. And yes, I'd be more than happy to see my money go to a good dead. Charley, btw, I don't know you but you rock!
I read all of the previous posts but still have a few questions:
- I'm planning on shooting portrait calotypes with the 8x10 camera I am to purchase, so Charley's 12" (and to some degree 10" too) Ilex paragon lens is right on. However, being that I shoot on paper ISO 3 I need my lens to be able to synch to a strobe head somehow. Is there any type of PC synch cord connector available of these older Ilex lenses?
- question 2 has to see with the front standard: I understand that it is very unique and sounds like buckets of fun to play with. I would however be in need of "some" front tilt movement, even if minimal (say 5º) for the type of portraits I have in mind. Would there be any way to implement such movement on that unusual rotating front standard?
- OK last question: I lived in Chicago 5 years, teaching photo at Governors down south in the burbs, but moved to Vancouver, Canada about 1 year and a half ago: would you accept to ship there? I would of course pay for the extra shipping cost and import duties (already used to that, unfortunately)?
Thank you in advance for your answers, as well as for reconfirming what final asking price you were set on ($550 plus S/H?).
I see you're listed as an MFer, so perhaps you're not overly familiar with the trials and tribulations of being an LFer. Don't get discouraged, but there are some challenges ahead for you, and please forgive me if I'm telling you things you already know.
The two lenses that I offered are lenses only - there are no shutters with them, and thus no strobe sync. To use them, you'd have to choose a mounting method, e.g., mounting flange, lens clamp or just screwing them into a lens board with, perhaps, a little glue. I don't know if I have a mounting flange for either of the lenses, but will look around.
Shutters are another challenge. The expensive way of joining a lens to a shutter is to have a machinist take the front and rear cells out of the barrel and mount them into a shutter. A somewhat cheaper method is to have a machinist mount the entire lens onto the front of a shutter. A much cheaper method is to use a Packard shutter, perhaps mounted in front of the lens. Believe me, many, many of us have duct taped Packards to lenses.
All that said, I'd personally recommend you start with the simplest, cheapest mounting & syncing method - use a hat for a shutter and fire the strobe manually. If you're in a studio using ISO 3 paper, that'll work fine.
Items withdrawn from sale. I may repost them some time in the future, but not sure at the moment.
Thanks for your interest!