Used to be, but no more.
PE
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Used to be, but no more.
PE
Try a 85B filter on the camera. Your film is for 3400 lights not day light. This may be the fix you need.
But then it isn't a 500 speed film!
PE
The way I see it, these are great films to use if you are scanning rather than printing using an enlarger. The only issue is that you need to do ECN processing, and so can't just send it to a lab. The appeal of removing the remjet before hand (as a service) is that the exposed film could be sent off with the rest of your rolls from an event to the lab for C41 processing.
if you take that b&w neg and bleach it, wash it, expose it to light and develop in c41, ecn2, ra4 or e6 colour developer and then rinse bleach, fix, wash. Youll get colour out of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dradis
Anyway ECN2 process by hand is not hard. In any case Ive been fooling around with a splith bath variant made from the developer concentrates, which can make it lazy friendly. First few were terrible results, getting a lot better though.
As for no edge markings, that is severe underdevelopment, like my first test of the split bath, no edge markings, but images from the heavy overexposed section. Also thin dmax from the leader/tongue of the film, had to double the developer concentration for the edge markings to show up.
In this B&W example, it looks great, but there is no assurance that all 3 layers are developed properly and so you can get all kinds of shifts when it is bleached and developed in a color developer.
PE
Rodinal 1 hour stand worked reasonably well in that regard for me on C-41 film in the past as had 1+25 with salt for 8 minutes got great results, obviously not the same as normal process, but nice images.Quote:
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
Considering if its shot at box speed, and the scene looks like probably extremely high temp late in the afternoon then probably yes, Id guess quite blue biased.
Either way looks like a very nice b&w film in the worst scenario :)
Ive found Rodinal to work well at various dilutions rehal'ing to colour so my feeling would be that the colour temp and exposure once balanced it should be good.
Ive found it to be poor in one case.. on Vision Print Film, good b&w at various speeds, terrible colour (CD-2 split bath has thus far provided the best in camera usage).
Of course.. only one way to find out
Good B&W and terrible color might be the norm. We do not know.
PE
That film on Etsy might be fun to try just to see what happens. That's a lot of money to go the lomo route though. Buying some old Kodacolor II would be cheaper and from the sounds of it (chemistry is not my 'thing'), would get similar results? Of course its very possible I am way off here.
I really wish there was a way to get my hands on fresh bulk rolls of C-41 or E-6. :(
Athiril, what times would I need at each step? This sounds very interesting. Also when you say "expose to light" do u mean completely exposed in daylight? I hope this doesn't sound dumb.Quote:
Originally Posted by Athiril
@james in ga. Guess I should have mentioned, I did use an 85b filter. It actually calls for this on the box and says to meter at 320 because of the 2/3 drop from the filter. Since my ae-1 does ttl metering I left it at 500 for my comparison shot. Also tried everything between 100 and 1600, with the "best" images in the 100-200 range for color and about 400 for b&w.
My entire goal here is to get THE BEST RESULTS POSSIBLE USING C41. I know ec2 would be better but great results CAN be had from c41 (see links in my original post). I dont want three different sets of chems around the house because i dont shoot enough film to use them all. I was just looking for a bulk way to buy color and still be able to use the c41 rolls I have with the same chems. I may have failed. I like to expirimemt so I'll try a few more and if I don't find a good receipe I'll enjoy the rest as b&w. Thanks for everyone's input.
