The film will continue to develop during the rinse. Unless you use a stop bath but then it will affect the PH of the bleach that can be a hassle for rusing the bleach.
Originally Posted by fotoobscura
There have been a number of posts by PE in the past explaining why Blix is not ideal for C-41 process. I have also seem reports of problems using Blix in C-41 process. For some reason Tetenal C-41 kit continues to use Blix. C-41 is a proprietary process shared by Kodak and Fuji. There are reasons why it uses a bleach followed by fix. For optimal results I will use only Kodak or Fuji C-41 chemicals and follow the standard procedures to develop at 38 degree C for 3 min 15 seconds. I will bleach and fix then followed by final rinse with a Kodak final rinse chemical.
Very interesting. Thank you for the information. I will try to dig up PE's posts.
There are a couple if things that are not quite right in the above.
Originally Posted by Diapositivo
1) Developer is a base, or alkali, this means that a developer will increase the PH, until it's either neutral (7) or higher. An acid stop will keep an acid bleach an acid.
2) Acetic acid is what gives vinegar it's kick. The dilutions used in photography, typically 1% to 2%, is actually lower then that used for cooking use, typically 5% to 8%. This means if you run out of stop bath, go to the kitchen, grab the white vinegar from the cupboard and cut it 1+4 with water and you have a stop bath. If you have higher concentrations then for household use, it could be dangerous. Most acetic acid for stop bath is produced chemically these days, it's not the acid that could be dangerous, it's the impurities that could be in it, from the chemical process. Not much you can do about the smell. Another option would be to pick up a bottle of Ilford odourless stop bath, which is citric acid, mix according to the instructions and you should be pretty close. Mix according to need, in other words if you need 250ml of solution, mix that amount.