Well, Chloride is a halide, and there is some interaction. Since color neg is carefully balanced, I would avoid Chloride ion if at all possible. Kodak quit using HAHCl just about when I joined the company for just that reason. In fact, there was none on the shelves when I came there. Everything was HAS and so I did not get to run the experiment comparing the two. I just accepted the "current wisdom" on the subject.
Maybe I should not have, but that was the accepted situation back then.
I just suspect it would be very low, due to it's weak solvent and restraining action in B&W dev's normally needs to be significantly higher to be useful. I do have access to a densitometer which I calibrate before every use, and a Imacon 949, if I get some time, I can plot some colour curves, and do some very high scans to examine grain and sharpness differences using varying NaCl amounts added to C-41 developer.
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
Well, I would rather be right than wrong.
The recipe linked in #10 above is the one I use, with very good results.
Thanks for the response.
Is the "potash" in this recipe Potassium Hydroxide?
Also, I was a bit confused about the product Calgon. Can you clarify that?
Potassium Carbonate iirc.
Originally Posted by HumbleP
Calgon is a calcium sequestering agent used when mixing with tap water. Its chemical name is sodium hexametaphosphate.
Just wondering about the A905 in the recipe you recommended Athiril. It's a wetting agent right?
Couldn't find much info on that or where to source. Can a product like Forma Flo Wetting Agent
be used instead?
The A905 is a wetting agent of the former east German company „ ORWO“.
The contemporary equivalent (biocides added) should be “Calbe F905”
Actually you may omit this agent; I introduced it when I switched to development without prewash step.
It looks like there is no real need for it, just a liter on my shelves is waiting to get used before deteroation…
Thanks everyone for the responses. It's hugely helpful.
I've almost managed to source everything I need, all except for the Formalin in the stabalizer.
I'm wondering if I can leave the formalin out or should I just buy something like Kodak Flex III Stab & rep?