Yes, but in the same soup, at the same temperature, they got developed, and the other 'stuff' did not. What else can it possibly be? It is, all other things equal, the only variable.Quote:
Originally Posted by AgX
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Yes, but in the same soup, at the same temperature, they got developed, and the other 'stuff' did not. What else can it possibly be? It is, all other things equal, the only variable.Quote:
Originally Posted by AgX
The leader might show printed out silver (thus without development) due to the strong exposure you hinted at.
Which would mean that bleaching would have not worked either.
I wonder if PE just searches for "PE" every night and responds when he can LOL
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
If it were my film, I would develop the C-41 for a longer time or even at a lower temperature and even longer time yet. I would bleach/fix it for longer time too, like ten minutes.
From my understanding Blix is to completion. I think 4 minutes is too short for such aged exposures.
You are going to get color shifts anyway that will have to be corrected in post.
C22 dev as a starting point 20 minutes at 20C, bleach 10min, fix 10min. Bleach and fix times are a bit overkilled, with fresh chem they will go to completion faster (5-6 min).Quote:
Originally Posted by StoneNYC
For C41 film dev time is a bit longer, 22-23min, for those Agfacolor CN17 films I use slightly less, 18 min.
All those times are with replenished Tetenal ergoline minilab C-41 chemistry, separate dev/bleach/fix. Between steps I rinse 2x15 inversions with water. After final wash ca 1min in C-41 stabilisator. That's basically it.
My usual room temperature is ca 22C, so the actual times are accordingly a bit shorter.
Thanks! PS you have a warm house...Quote:
Originally Posted by werra
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
When you process color film THAT old you must remember that much, much speed is lost through the decades, probably four, or even five, stops. Thus, the film has been grossly underexposed and that underexposure also attends to the manufacturer's markings on the borders (which were also exposed back in the seventies before you bought the film). Thus, in your immediate case the ONLY thing you could have done was to give GROSS overdevelopment in hopes of getting something. I would have developed for about three times normal in your dire case.
And, wblynch is correct with the advice to blix longer. Old film is a pain but can be at least partially ressurrected. Blix is, indeed, 'to completion', as wblynch says. - David Lyga
keystroke error.
David, you know stuff so not saying you're wrong, BUTQuote:
Originally Posted by David Lyga
The speed loss is often in the exposure level, so if the film was already previously exposed he wouldn't be losing any more speed, these rolls as I remember had already been shot? They are just being developed now, so speed loss isn't an issue, just developing. Unless I'm totally thinking of another thread. Lol
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
Like a magnetic tape recording that fades over time, they lose their latent image over the years. It ends up like they were underexposed. That plus base fog has also built up so you need to develop your image above the base fog.
But part of what you're saying is true.
I once found a half-used 12 year old film in a camera and shot the rest of the roll before sending it out. The original shots were diminished from new but still pretty good. The new shots were all messed up.