10 is a lot!
I tried doing separate bleach+fix on RA4 using the Kodak chemicals and the bleach didn't work. It seems to need a buffering agent or something (acetic acid?) from the fix part to change the pH in order to bleach properly. If you bleach then fix, you will get retained silver, low saturation and high contrast. It's a nice look for some things, e.g. if you have a flat scene with lots of texture. Damn near impossible to get a flattering portrait from it though!
10 is not much when you consider that it is over about 30 deg F. And, that is about the max I have observed.
The blix needs the fix to work and the fix needs the bleach to work. It has nothing to do with buffering or acid or base. It is the mix of hypo and FeEDTA.
Well that's pretty darned easy. That range is 60 seconds of time over 32 degrees of temperature, which is close enough to two seconds per degree if the slope is constant. Very easy. And as for color, I would be working almost entirely within the range from 68F (winter) to 75F or so in summer, so the variation should be much less than it would be going all the way up to 100. And the lower end of that would only happen in winter if I started printing before warming the darkroom. In practice I generally turn on the heat down there ahead of time, or at least while setting up, so the actual range is going to be more like 72-75. Liquids are always a bit below ambient (evaporative cooling, I think) but I like it fairly warm when doing quiet, still work like in the darkroom. So my actual variation would probably be a matter of three, maybe at most five degrees.
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
I'm not going to do it now in my still temporary and unventilated darkroom, but the work on the downstairs plumbing starts next week. Once I have a darkroom with running water and ventilation again, I think I'll be ready to get back into printing color. :)