Hi. I shoved in the temp gauge into the patterson bottles while developing, bleaching and fixing. I attempted to get the temps at 38 for the dev and bleach, the fixing apparently is more liberal.
I think I may have found the source of my problems.
I have just tested the thermometer I bought and it is 1.8 degrees lower than it should be at boiling temp.
Tested in conjunction with a glass thermometer.
Plus I noticed the used bottles I bought from eBay also have crystals left in them from a previous chemical. I cleaned them out prior to making the Tetenal Mixture but I may not have clean everything out.
That coupled with the lower reading of hearing aid battery in FTB would make for underexposure in both the camera and the developing.
I will correct these to see if that makes a difference.
That said I now need to mixed some Ilfotec hc110 for developing some fuji across and Kodak Tri-x 400
Though am stumped and the dilutions for my new 1 litre bottles. for all of the dev stop fix and wash.
I'll have to buy one of those baby syringes as all of my measuring jugs are in 25ml's
Idea ideas or links for this?
Thanks again. FN
Originally Posted by AllanD
Re: mixing the Ilfotec developer. I am assuming that it is Ilfotec HC you are using (which is not HC110 - just similar to it).
(EDIT: You should note that with liquid developers like Ilfotec HC, you normally mix up each time just the amount that you need at that time.)
Many developing tanks have information printed on their bottom which shows how much developer is required by your tank to cover the film and reel you are using. If yours is like my Paterson tank, it says that 290 ml is required for each 35 ml roll.
If that is the case for you, I would suggest that you use 320 ml of working strength developer per roll (it will make the arithmetic simple).
To make up 320 ml of working strength developer, add 10 ml of Ilfotec "syrup" to 310 ml of water - you will end up with 320 ml of Ilfotec HC working solution at a dilution of 1+31 (not 1:31 - that is Kodak's way of saying the same thing).
Syringes will work well when measuring the "syrup". The Paterson 45 ml graduated cylinder is also a useful tool for mixing small quantities.
If you have a graduated cylinder that has a line for 325 ml, and you are careful, it should work fine if you add 10 ml of syrup to some water and then bring the total volume up to the 325 ml line. The extra 5 ml or so of water (in 315) won't make enough of a difference to matter.
If you have measuring equipment that is more accurate, you could mix exactly 290 ml of working strength developer by using the following formula: amount of syrup = total volume needed / 32. So for 290 ml, the calculation is 290/32 = 9.0625 ml syrup, plus water to bring the total volume to 290 ml. But why would you bother?
Hope this helps.
EDIT: In case you don't already have it, here is the link to Ilford's data sheet for Ilfotec HC: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/...7105392231.pdf
That sounds right, and with commercial kits you don't need deionized water.
Originally Posted by filmnumpty
Since the magenta stuff also affects the areas which were not exposed (and therefore not developed), I am not sure whether your color developer is the problem. Somehow I suspect that your BLIX didn't work properly. Can you remember what BX1 and BX2 looked like? Was BX2 a clear liquid, or was is milky, with a yellow precipitate?
If you mix a fresh set of color chemistry, and if that new set gives you correct results, you could try reBLIXing these magenta clips.
Thank you for that.
I have just developed my first roll of Fuji Neopan 120 using the Ilfotec HC
Apart from having real trouble getting the film on the spool, then never getting the dev temperature below 21 degrees no matter how hard I tried and using the digital truth dev chart developing for 6 minutes they seem to have developed into something. Oddly 2 frames were almost white, 1 frame with an odd black line vertically through it, 3 frames very grey tone, 4 frames dark and then light contrast, 2 frames probably unusable as I accidentally got the end of the spool stuck on the roll and then while the drying was taking place the line I set up in the bathroom failed and the whole roll just hit the deck.
If anything actually scans well it will be a miracle.
I've been trying to find a stand development dilution and time for Ilfotec hc but haven't been successful as yet.
Any thoughts on this anyone?
Originally Posted by MattKing
There is no reason to adjust the temperature below 21C - just adjust the time to go with the 21C.
Most likely, the problems with your film are related to your struggles loading the reel. I have two hints: make sure the reel is as dry as possible, and practice with a test roll.
And stand development is not a good choice for general purpose photography. It is a specialized technique, with bost pros and cons associated with it.
Thank you so much for your help.
I'll have to scan this roll today and let you all see what happened to it.
It's definitely kinked a couple of time whereby it fell out of the groves in the reel a few times.
Is it best to put it in opposite to how it curls or go with the curls in the film?
I'll get a hair dryer on the reel before I do it again.
I don't actually know how to adjust the time, actually as I used an app that told me what to do (massive Dev) I have no idea why 6 minutes is the given time for development for 1:31 dilution. It certainly gives no idea on the side of the bottle.
At least in c41 there is a booklet that says, this is the dilutions, this is the temperature etc. etc.
Any help on this would be more than appreciated cheers.
Edited: Ah hold on, there is a dev chart on the Ilford website and a compensation one. Ah hah.
Odd thing is massive dev lists the temp should be 18 degrees for Fuji Acros but for their own films it's 20.
I'll now have a look at fuji's site to check what they say. Hmm maybe I should have done this all before I started developing. Oops.
Originally Posted by MattKing
The film curl should match the reel.
And be careful of the Massive Development chart. It is a bit like wikipedia. If you have manufacturer's recommendations, it is better to start with them as you know the source.
Thank you so much.
here is what the film looks like.
it is a lot grainier than I was expecting, the film itself feels really thin and some parts did not even develop. Plus the shots are soft too. I have an Epson 750 and have scanned in lab developed shot so I know it's not the scanner. Or the camera or lenses.
i'm doing something fundamentally wrong and it's really upsetting.
Originally Posted by MattKing
If the image on the negative is unfocussed, or blurred in other ways, it has nothing to do with the development - it is an "in camera" problem.
If by "soft" you mean that the contrast is low, that can be adjusted for in both exposure (including lighting) and development.
And the parts that aren't developed? That happens when the film isn't loaded correctly in the reel.
As you are in UK can I make a suggestion rather than process C41 35mm whether it be Ilford XP2 or colour. Just give it to Tesco who will Dev, cut and sleeve a 35mm film for you for just 99p. There is no creativity involved in processing C41 that I am aware of but their is plenty of scope to screw it up. Let someone else do it and benefit from their economies of scale.