well, thankfully, I'm not having to shell out clams for the chems. since I develop at a photo center, they purchase the chems. I'm just trying to help them get the least expensive, yet QUALITY chemistry available. I don't want to put my precious films through sub-par chems.
They order chems for RA-4 from a local mom/pop camera store. in addition to 30" Fuji CA roll paper for their chromira.
I'm one of the youngest people there, mostly older people who 'want to get back into photography'. Nothing wrong with that. Its funny though because many of them ask me why I bother with the "big, heavy cameras". But then I show them some prints, and they see why. I guess some have become believers, cause there are a few that have returned to film after I've shown them how to develop/ basic print. They usually just go to Costco for their dev/printing. One guy got a Canon 5dII, but after his wife saw the c/c statement, she got pissed. He still has it, but for some reason, he held on to his eos-1n. he now shoots more ektar 100 than I'd like to say here :). easily 50 rolls/month. he just can't get enough :). he uses Costco though. he's in his early 60s.
he is pretty well off financially, and he now questions why he bought into the "megapixel myth". he doesn't print bigger than 8x10/12, and he does some really nice stuff! using some t/s lenses, some of his landscapes are very impressive. he and his wife are on the road 30 weeks/year living in an rv-bus. that's how I want to retire :). Photographing God's great creation! As long as the contrails don't get in the shot :D.
If it can help, I just processed 4 rolls of 120 Astia slide film trough 500ml of solution. I extend the 1st developer of 30 sec. and the bleach from 6 to 10 minutes.
The results are really good.
Not bad, as it gives you about 40 rolls per kit!
Once you get used in maintaining the right temp, it gets as easy as processing b&w, just a tad longer. Now that I used more than half the capacity of my first chemistry kit I can't believe I waited so long before processing my own color.
I like being able to support a company that I used to work for. They're great people, and I'd hate to have to break a business relationship with them, but I need to save money, and even $5/roll stretches my budget right now. I'll finally be able to apply for the FAFSA this next term, since my dad finally got his taxes done for '08.
my sis' needs FAFSA too. she's in San Luis Obispo, I'm at a local comm. college, so my fees are smaller. But money saved is money earned :).
btw.... are you using a jobo?
and getting TOTAL control over the processing part lets me fine tune things to how I like them.
is this in fuji or kodak chems? why the extension of 30 sec? just for fuji film?
Originally Posted by kristopher_lawrence
Looks like I'll have to start another thread - this one has gone completely astray, and has absolutely nothing to do either with the title or my original questions :(
The time extension if for any E-6 film, the process is standard.
I use a paterson tank with water bath and color thermometer.
Originally Posted by DanielStone
sorry about that Denis. wasn't my intention.
so, lets re-start with YOUR original question:
Originally Posted by Denis P.
Not a big deal, Daniel.... Obviously not much info about this Fuji E6 kit. I've heard about 3-bath Fuji kit, but not about this one (6+1 bath, as shown in my pic in the first post).
Originally Posted by DanielStone
Looks like I'm on my own. Will try to digest what has been written already on other kits, so hopefully will be able to do something with the one I have :)
I'll post my results (if any).
The original kit has 3 perishable parts.
1. First developer
2. Color Developer
3. Reversal bath.
They are packed under nitrogen, so once you open them to the air, their 1 - 3 year shelf life goes away. That unopened shelf life depends on date of manufacture and how it was kept getting to you (hot, cold etc).
A one part developer is not as stable as a 2 part developer. Therefore the First Developer is less stable than the Color Developer which is usually 3 parts. The First Developer should be light brown to clear.
The Color Developer, if in 3 parts, only goes bad if the small bottle (usually B) turns brown or black. If amber to clear it is fine.
The reversal bath gives no indication that it is bad, other than giving bad results.
All liquid kits can be mixed up in small quantities. Powder kits cannot. After opening, liquid kits usually last as concentrates for about 6 months or less. The mixed working solutions will last about 6 weeks in full bottles.