Wow indeed! I'm very impressed by your results, keep up the good work!
I did som reversal RA-4 experiments a couple of months ago. It worked, but the results were not that great.
After I have seen your pictures I will sure try again, as I have a fair amount of slides that i would like to print.
Some quick tips:
- It's all about the first developer. Other steps don't affect too much. Test with unexposed sheet and a much exposed sheet, you have to get proper black and white.
- If you encounter cyan / not white highlights, don't waste time trying to correct it with filtration. It won't work no matter how hard you try and you just mess the shadows and midtones. You have to lenghten development time (doesn't work very well), add more developing agents to developer (fighting against bromide and thus not so good solution, but works) or to scratch-mix first dev like I described before (it's really the easiest way, I highly recommend it!!)
- If you get the cyan problem, you will find that you can get better whites by adding much exposure. But it's not much of use if you mess your midtones, so, adding exposure is not a solution to the highlight problems. You have to chemically modify the first developer.
- Two-step wash without running water after FD is enough if you change the waters after every few sheets, but if you have running water, it's easy and safe to use it so I recommend running water.
- 30 second reverse exposure is enough but only if you take the paper very near to your lamp.
- Fix exposure first, then filtration, because overexposed sheet will appear magenta and underexposed green.
- Use much dodge&burn because of high contrast. When you burn, you may adjust magenta filtration lower for burning to avoid magenta crossover.
- If you add sulfite to color developer, you can still use the same developer in normal RA-4 as a low-contrast developer.
Thanks so much for all these details. But there's a few things I'm still fuzzy on.
I'd like to make some largeish pinhole photos using RA4 paper and the reversal process.
I gather I'll need to filter the daylight coming through the pinhole to warm it up.. I was planning on using a piece of developed c-41 film for the filter.
Does that make sense?
I was planning on tray processing with fotospeed mono.. will that make a difference? Can I use a monobath with the reversal process?
Found this overview of the RA-4 reversal process on another thread, might be a useful addition here:
Have a look here then.
Originally Posted by j03
Thanks for the thread,
"1) Too high contrast in shadows
2) Too low contrast in highlights."
Sounds useful to me... :)
Will have to get into this when I get an enlarger when I get my own place :)
Hrst when you're making those step wedges is it a logarithmic exposure or linear? Is it 10 seconds, 20 seconds, 30 seconds, 40 seconds or 10, 20, 40, 80?
Logarithmic. 1 stop for every step.
I hope that this experimenting will ultimately produce a technique that will allow me to have consistent results. But not yet. So, meanwhile I have been printing transparencies while staying within the RA4 process completely. I do this by enlarging the transparency onto RA4 paper through a mask and processing the print. I then contact print the enlargement once again onto RA4 paper and process it. I have had better results doing this than using the b&w developer step. Doesn't take very long either.
So you use the same filtration for both steps? or do you change? and any problems with backprint?
Originally Posted by bill williams
WOW! There is a light at the end of the tunnel for slide shooters :D