Intro to Color Printing
I came across a Tetenal 2-step paper developing kit so now I'm curious about maybe trying color printing. I have an Omega C700 enlarger. If I wanted to use that enlarger and not purchase a color head, would a filter pack be the only way to go? What kind of safelight is good /safe with color paper - if any?
If you're not willing to acquire a dichro head then yes, a filter pack will be your only choice. I do, however, highly recommend using a dichro head (especially if you think you're going to be doing a lot of color printing) as it greatly simplifies the process and improves precision. With the filter pack the smallest change in color balance you'll be able to make is usually 5 CC.
For color negative (RA-4) paper a yellow/amber safelight is required, but using a safelight is not recommended if you can avoid it.
You may find this article informative: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum221/...ing-200-a.html
I printed for the first 5 years or so that I printed colour, (way back with EP/2) with acetate filters. Then a dichroic head enlarger came my way as a lot of gear I bought. Oh, it made RA-4 printing a lot handier. Then I spent on a colorstar analyzer, which is not a necessity, but is very appreciated and well made. Keep an eye on a nearby craigslist or kijiji or whatever your local online classifieds are. They will ultimately yield a darkroom lot with the enlarger priced right.
Excellent link, thank you for sharing it.
Originally Posted by E76
I looked around and a C760 Dichro head can be had for less than $50, so I'd be a fool to try and mess with filters. Hmmm... getting more and more interested here...
It's great fun Wolfeye, give it a go.
I wrote that article a while back as I was getting into color darkroom. Since then some of my recommendations have changed. Don't use fuji paper ever. It's not made like the kodak paper and requires its own developer at the full 97 degree temperature process. Kodak paper looks great when processed at room temperature in trays using Kodak Ektacolor RT replenisher (just mix the developer from the three bottles, don't add the starter). Use this with the bleach fix and you are golden. For papers try either Kodak Supra Endura or Kodak Edge (search for it on ebay.)
Why leave the starter out?
Originally Posted by tiberiustibz
When mixing a tank solution from the replenisher, Kodak calls for adding 175ml of water and 25ml of starter to 800 ml of mixed replenisher for 1L of working tank solution. From personal experience using the replinisher without diluting it to a tank solution you will have to stop down to f32 to get a 10 second exposure.
BTW, nothing wrong with the Fuji CA paper. It processes at the same time and temperature as Kodak's: 45 seconds for the developer, 30 second stop, 30 second rinse, 45 seconds for the Blix, and 1:30 (3x30 seconds each) for the final rinse - all at 95F.
Tom, try the Fuji at room temperature! :D And have fun.
As for the starter, if you want to work at RT then leave the starter out and use the replenisher.
My advice: do what we say; be happy. It's much better than ignoring the advice and coming back in 2 months wondering why all your images are pink in the highlights. It took me a year and a half to figure all of this out. Gain from other people's mistakes, you don't have to make them yourself.
Originally Posted by Wolfeye
I think the filter method is just fine. Sure you have to go through a box of filters and put a filter pack together (it takes me about 7~8 minutes to get a roughly accurate color correction in), but once you get a good color balance, the variation of color on the same roll of film shouldn't be that different and the rest of the printing session should be somewhat simple.
PS: This is a nice article that has helped me in the past.