How were the negatives processed?
How were the negatives processed?
I find that when not stored in a fridge for long periods of time (ie greater than a day), that Fuji CA II gives a cyan cast. I printed with it fresh and was fine, but forgot to put it back in the freezer and now I have a cyan color cast.
Surely minilabs don't remove all the paper from their machines at the end of every day and store in a fridge?
If this was the case then I'd expect Fuji to issue a strict warning that paper must be removed from a fridge for less than 24hrs
24 hours??? I normally bring mine out the night or morning before as it needs time to warm up. No problems with a cyan cast here. I think modern papers are not as sensitive. They still recommend storing at 55F or below IIRC but it isn't ruined at room temperature.
Just printing a roll of new Portra 160 (120) this morning. Landscapes strangely after shooting 4-5 rolls of people on Ektar. The landscapes are beautiful printed onto Fuji CA II.
The negs where processed in a refrema, mostly. I'm going back to the drawing board here though, there has to be some sort of cyan fogging or improperly mixed chemicals. I tried another neg, fuji 160s, last night that was shot in very warm late afternoon light and still the cyan/blue cast. I must be getting fogging from the enlarger head, which I've never had before but this is a new paper. I'm also going to add a stop bath. I don't see how the paper gets a cyan cast after not being in a fridge, that seems crazy. I have never been able to keep 16x20 or 20x24 Archive or Endura in a fridge, and have gotten great prints with no cyan.
Cyan fog can be from light leaks, wrong safelight filter or wrong chems. Did you follow the mixing instructions properly, right dilution? Too high a concentration can cause cyan fog and streaking.
The fact that only the image area is affected is odd however. With a bad safelight filter I'd expect to see the fog outside the image area as well; the same goes for improperly mixed chems or badly stored paper.
Is there any light spill from the head?
I use indicator stop bath. I process at room temp, presently 22C. I use a Kodak #13 safelight filter with 15w bulb reflected off the ceiling.
Yes, I suspect that it's the spill from the enlarger head. Why in the world can't you turn on the dial indicator lights?! Makes no sense to me, but I'm going back into the darkroom after work tonight and see if I can't solve it once and for all. Changing the filter pack, then taping it all closed EVERY time is going to be annoying =(
someone on here told me dialing in cyan neutralizes the y/m being dialled in, thus making it useless but i am not sure if it is the case... also you have no Y dialled in. on fuji crystal archive with a jobo head i used: M80 Y65, got great results. works well also with kodak supra III too. hope this helps! you dialled in nowhere near enough magneta, and no yellow which you need!) dont bother dialing cyan for negative film. weather fuji type ii is similar to crystal archive i don't know
hope this helps as a starter point! i was pulling my hair out while trying to do this, wasting sheet after sheet (yellow and magneta casts) so i eventually meditated on it and asking guidance (yes im crazy!) and they were the values i got... worked like a charm and saved me hours and loads of sheets (i was going around the 40/50/60 range with both)... i heard jobo heads have slightly "more" on their dials than others? i also bought some veiwing filters as per suggestions which will help!
the values for the old tetenal paper i had were Y71 M66 (meditation), but give both values ive given a try as a starter point if you are not dialing in enough, but as i said ive never used type ii so i dont know, the sheets also are cyan when new take one out, seal the box and look under the lights) so make sure theres enough development (developed to completion so dont worry about going over) and enough exposure too. i found 3.5 seconds at f.8 at 8x10 in optimal for not-so-dense negatives and 4.5 - 5 seconds for properly exposed negatives.
have you ever printed ra4 before? i would practice on the cheapest smallest sheets you can find!