David, Think so, huh????
David, Think so, huh????
</span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (David A. Goldfarb @ Mar 7 2003, 11:53 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>If the negative is flat and you want up to one zone of expansion, you won't blow the highlights, but you will bring them up one zone</td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
How does it affect pyro stain?
I've never used Azo or Amidol but when faced with a flat negative that needs more contrast than I can get with the hardest paper grade available I resort to underexposure and overdevelopment just as I would do when looking to increase the contrast when developing film.
The procedure is as follows. Make the best possible print even though you know it needs more contrast. Make a second print but reduce the exposure by 30 to 50% and process in the same developer used for the first print. You will have to develop by inspection which could take up to 40 minutes, that's the longest I've developed in these circumstances. I process in the dark, switching on the safelight occasionally to check the progress. Clearly there is a large degree of trial and error involved but it does work with both graded and VC papers. Don't be afraid to go to the extremes to get a result.
c6h6o3: I haven't tried it yet with a pyro neg. Usually I've used it with TMX, which I develop in D-76 (1+1), and which tends not to have enough density range for Azo, but I have read that it works with pyro negs. The effect is actually similar to pyro, since both add density proportionally to the highlights, though selenium intensification doesn't produce the edge effects, etc. of pyro. Try it with a neg that is otherwise a reject and report back!
C6H6O3? Would that be the pyrogallol formula, by any chance?
What about using a higher-contrast paper developer? I can understand why people want to use Amidol (although I can't - no local sources), but even with Amidol it should be possible to make a high-contrast formula?
It may be worth a try to take it from the amidol to a second bath with full strength Dektol for about half or a quarter of the devloping time. Sometimes it will set the contrast. Good luck. Tom Perkins
Concerning the effect of selenium toning on a pryo neg, I was once told by the tech support guy at Bostick and Sullivan that this would intensify the negative but "eliminate" the pyro stain. "Eliminate" is my word, I don't remember his exact word. I often thought about trying the technique on an unevenly stained pyro neg to see if I could fix it.
You might try Fein's Amidol formula--it is very contrasty and gives very clean high values due the quantity of anti-foggant and citric acid. However, it typically gives a rather blue-black image color.
And, while you are here, I remember reading in your Smith-Amidol article that you tone prints in selenium at a much different dilution than he does. Did you try it his way and find that it didn't work for you or that your lower dilition works better or faster? In other words, why the difference?
I keep a bottle of selenium toner in a standard dilution of 1:15, so that is what I used. I pulled the print when it reached the tone I liked. I would be willing to bet the 1:15 works a lot faster than the 1:128, though I'm not saying it is better or worse--just that it works for me.