Consider x-ray duplicating film. It is a reversal film with simple chemistry. Enlarge as you would be making a print on paper except have the negative in the negative carrier with the emulsion up (not facing the easel). The film is very slow so even at full aperture opening exposures will be long. Also the opposite is done when burning or dodging ie if the end product contact print is to be "darker" the negative you are making needs more exposure. Like transparency film over exposure yields a "lighter" slide. The film itself has super fine grain so the grain if noticeable will be from the original film. Kodak has 8x10 and the chemistry is GBX. I believe Agfa still has some different sizes and also works with the GBX chemistry. The whole technique is very easy. I have been using it for pt/pd printing for years with excellent results. The learning curve would be to determine the exposure necessary to achieve the density needed for your final process.
What about printing an interneg onto postive paper (now that ilford and efke both make it)?
I'm with Jeffrey on this....currently using fuji direct dupe film and HC110 diluted 1:3
and getting great results...have already made enlarged negs from 35mm and then made palladium prints....have an entire stack of enlarged 120 and 4x5 negs ready to be printed in platinum. Why go the xtra steps where there is nothing but DUSt and imperfections...this is a direct one step process!!
ic-racer...That stuff is re-packaged x-ray duplicating film. It's a direct positive film, so processing is the same as sheet film or paper. Like jeffreyg said, it's really slow. I don't have my notes in front of me, but exposure time was something like 4 minutes under a D2 dichroic head on the "high" setting, either wide open (f/5.6) or f/8.
Originally Posted by ic-racer
I tried processing in dilute HC-110 (either Dil. H or Dil. D) or in Formulary Liquidol paper developer. It needs a good pre-soak (with agitation), or else all the anti-halation, etc. dyes cause some mottling during development.
Due to the blue tint of the base, the visual density of the base is about 0.2, but the blue channel of my color densitometer reads 0.06 on the base. I think this will be good for UV-based alt-process, or graded papers, but the blue might mess with VC papers.
I went with T-Max interpositives with final negs on Arista-II litho film, for a current project, because it gave more flexibility in adjusting final D-range for alt-process. The x-ray dupe film can be manipulated a little bit with developing time, but I never got it dialed in. I'll probably try again at some point in time, though.
Hope this helps some.
Peter,I have a box of this film in a blue base tint.Is this what you have? I need an idea of how long an exposure and how long a developing time. I like the one step,but have had trouble getting enough contrast,Best regards,Chip
I dug up my notes, and here's what I have for the Ultrafine Continuous Tone Duplicating film that ic-racer linked to:
2x enlargement factor (4x5 to 8x10)
4 minute exposure with a 135mm lens f/5.6 "HIGH" setting on D2 (250W halogen bulb)
1 min presoak 70F water. Constant agitation
6 min develop Formulary Liquidol (paper developer) 1+9 70F Constant agitation (it looks like I never tried HC-110 with this film)
-- This actually might be a bit over-exposed. 3 mins might have been closer to the proper exposure.
-- The usable exposure range for this film looks to be about 2.6-2.8 logE. It didn't capture all the steps in a 31-step Stouffer wedge
-- The development time I used resulted in a slope of >1 (logD/logE). 4 min dev gets closer to a 1:1 slope, but seemed to have some mottling, perhaps from incomplete development?
Keep in mind that if you're starting out with a smaller negative, your exposures could be greater, since the enlargement factor is larger.
Oh - well I just order the Ultrafine duplicating film and didn't realize that it takes a really long exposure. I will be getting it early next week so I'll give it a try and report back. I have high hopes for it though the long exposure time could be a deal breaker. BUT, I just tried their Ortho Litho product and after a preliminary test I am very stoked about it! It seems to work exactly like the Arista Ortho Litho I used to get from Freestyle. This is very good news for me. I teach alternative printing techniques and there was a semester that I was just at a loss for a film to use that my students could afford.
I make enlarged b&w negs from colour slides on panchromatic b&w film (e.g. tmax). Works nicely. Easy.
Keith, how do you meter those exposures, or have you gotten to a point through trial & error where you just know where it needs to be?
I had the idea of taking an incident reading at the baseboard using the ISO of the panchro film, and using the exposure time at f/1.0.
I intend to do just what you've described in the future and any way to minimize film wasting would be good (for me at least... ;))