# 8 x 10 enlarger ?

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• 11-21-2007, 08:50 AM
jp80874
Dave,

Don't forget that not every student prints full negative. Cropping an 8x10 negative then printing to 16x20 or 20x24 will take a little more extension depending on the percentage of crop.

On the other hand I have a 138S Durst converted to cold light in a darkroom with a seven foot two inch ceiling. The head is on the post about an inch under the ceiling for air movement. Making 20x24 prints I have never dropped the table its full range while using a 300mm lens. I have a 240mm to switch to, but have never needed it.

John Powers
• 11-21-2007, 11:07 AM
galyons
Corrected
Hi Dave!
Using "The equation for the distance D between film and image as a function of lens focal length f and magnification m is D = f * (m+1)^2 / m."

For 8x10 negs:

300mm lens: 2 mag (16x20) 135cm/53.2" 2.5 Mag (20x25) 140.8cm/55.5"

240mm lens: 2 mag (16x20) 108cm/42.5" 2.5 Mag (20x25) 112.7cm/46.3"

My DR has an 8' ceiling. I use a Durst 184 with Pavelle head. I use 240mm, 300mm, 360mm, as needed, but the 300 is the default. I have printed 20x24 with a 300mm. My Max D = 66.5" so, I could, theoretically, get to 3x (24X30) with my 300mm! Platen low/head high!!

Cheers,
Geary

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Wooten
What is the smallest column extention and lens needed to:

1. Make a 16 x 20 print from an 8 x 10 neg?

2. Make a 20 x 24 print from an 8 x 10 neg?

Thanks in advance. I knew you would know.:)

• 11-21-2007, 01:13 PM
jonw
Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Wooten
I don t have to do that! The little woman is doing that!:o :o :o :D

Boy do I know that...I just purchased a 5x7 Enlarger to go with my 35mm and 4x5 Enlargers (they were lonely) and I wish she only raised the roof :o

I can't wait until we actually have space for my darkroom! :D

Jon
• 12-16-2007, 05:41 AM
Neil Poulsen
I think the important number is the distance between the negative and print.

The minimum that I come up with for an 8x10 negative using my spreadsheet intended for making these calculations is 43 inches for the above distance. That assumes no cropping.
• 12-16-2007, 11:39 AM
rootberry
I've never owned an enlarger, and now all I have is my 8x10 cam. So the question is (not trying to hijack the thread): Should I get a bigger camera or an 8x10 enlarger? ;)

Hmmm, I do have a 16' ceiling in my DR....
• 12-16-2007, 02:11 PM
jp80874
Quote:

Originally Posted by rootberry
I've never owned an enlarger, and now all I have is my 8x10 cam. So the question is (not trying to hijack the thread): Should I get a bigger camera or an 8x10 enlarger? ;)

Hmmm, I do have a 16' ceiling in my DR....

Yet another possibility is to get the enlarger and print to what ever size you like, in my case 20x24. Then get a larger camera. A panoramic view is a great compliment to the 8x10 shape. I have 7x17 that I contact print in a frame built by Bill Schwab. This is used on the enlarger table under the enlarger light source and filters.

If you do a series of twenty images for a class or show this gives yet another level of interest to the group. Most shows push for uniformity of image size. In a photo critique at APUG-Toronto, Les McLean suggested a mix of 20x24, 7x17 contact prints and 4x5 contact detail prints. My instructor wanted uniformity, but I like the idea and have started to use it on my latest series for a potential show outside of school.

John Powers
• 09-13-2011, 10:41 PM
Dave Wooten
Well 4 years after my original post inquiry I have finally found an 8 x 10 enlarger to my liking...thanks Tim B. The Bessler XL safely made the trip from Colorado to Las Vegas last month. The lab is coming together piece by piece and bit by bit....(so now I will hit the "Post Quick Reply" button :)
• 09-13-2011, 11:00 PM
Toffle
"Like" button. :)
• 09-13-2011, 11:57 PM
2F/2F
I got my Super Chromega F Dichroic II with 300mm Nikkor for \$750. It had all the stuff (fan, power box, ducting, etc), plus a voltage regulator (though it is only 1000W; 1500 or greater is preferable from what I hear). Plus I had to drive about 900 miles round trip to pick it up. I had to spend another \$100 or so on a Lektra timer for it so I didn't blow out my Time-O-Lite. Deals are out there. I say wait for a deal to come, rather than doing a camera conversion. There are no compromises in functionality that way, and alignment, service, and parts are potentially easier to deal with.

Anyhow, my real point is that you actually need some decent headroom to make a 16x20 with a 300 lens. I cannot do it with the headroom I have, even with the shelf on the bottom rung. This is because I have 10 inches of column that I cannot use. I got the enlarger to print 5x7 and to make oversized proofsheets, so it is a bit frustrating until I get that figured out. it seems like I cannot even get to 2x magnification. 11x14 enlarged proofsheets is the max for me at this time. Since I don't think I will be moving any time soon, I am seriously considering trying to track down a wide-angle lens for the 8x10 format, if there is such a thing.

I might consider calling it good for now with the two E models you have. There are advantages in size. And then you get to shoot 5x7 instead of 8x10. It is half the price, and I actually prefer the aspect ratio greatly. At those print sizes, you don't effectively lose anything in quality if you have your students shoot and enlarge 5x7 instead of 8x10 (though you do lose the ability to make full enlarged proofsheets), and you save a lot of room and expense in your lab.
• 09-14-2011, 12:13 AM
2F/2F
Quote:

Originally Posted by Curt
I wonder how large of an enlargement can be made with a Beseler 8x10 conversion head on a Beseler 45m?

The rails need not be used with the factory baseboard. So, you could go quite large if you make an elevated wall stand for the enlarger.
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