Another thought I should have mentioned. The green phosphor light can leak around the eye and is bright enough to fog film. Military grade units mask this green light, but the cheaper units do not and will fog film. The phosphor light is right on the peak green sensitivity of many films.
I have a Russian made night vision scope that gives a very sharp central portion of the image. Now that I think of it, this was one of my reasons for buying it (not very expensive). I was only guessing that it might be usefully in the darkroom - thanks for letting me know that my idea was correct.
Originally Posted by Photo Engineer
I forgot I still had the thing and never really put it to the test. It seems as though I had some doubts about it being used for that because I never heard any discussion, until now.
I noticed Amazon.com has the EyeClops Night Vision Goggles for $59.99.
I'm tempted to get one to make loading B&W film into reels easier. I have nerve damage in one of my hands and something it would help to see what I'm doing.
I've just come across this thread and have been looking getting one of these "Eyeclops" goggles. Has anyone actually tried this and how is it working?
How would it help in the dark. They don't seem to be IR devices.
I use an ATN-Viper in the darkroom to develop sheet film, so much fun I hardly want to develop roll film anymore because I don't get to watch it.
I did a sensitometrically-based fog test with TMY-2 and found the stock light would fog the film in 15 minutes so I "attenuated" it with a couple pieces of gray TMY-2 (cutout from the dirt background of a bad rodeo picture). E-6 is transparent to infrared, so black color slides can't be used for the purpose.
I don't find any trouble with the green light leaking around my eyepiece, it's well-designed.
But, I suppose I should do a real safelight test like I've been preaching with motorcycle engines and covering half the sheet of film. At least with a negative / positive process, fog on the film isn't as destructive to the final image as it is for prints.
I imagine the Eyeclops would work "fine" but the issue I would have with it is all the batteries.
Bill, is the "stock light' the IR light from the scope? I'm also not sure what you mean by 'attenuated" with the grey TMY-2.
It seems to be that the Ececlops might not focus too well close-up. Where the Viper focuses as close as 1 ft.
Seem like a good choice?
With attenuation Bill refers to mounting a neutral grey filter in front of that "stock light" (seemingly that IR-light).
As he is on the cheap side he substituted the grey filter by pieces cut off from developed b&w film with some density.
That Eyclops seems to be two-focus only.
I use a Viper and am quite happy with it. The lens cap has a pinhole which I use most of the time for the added depth of field. I can get it to focus at about 18" - beside using it to load sheet film holders, I use it to check development. I use dip tanks so I can pull a sheet out and see if I need to adjust the developing time. I have yet to notice any fogging issues - I am using it without any filter on the IR light.