I've been using a similar model, a smallish Arkay C-11 print dryer, for several months. Two advantages:
1. The ferrotype surface is useful for traditional glazed prints (glossy paper only) if you're into that.
2. In "Post Exposure" Ctein quotes Krys Krawczyk (of Beseler) as noting that heat drying can affect the final look of a print. (See pp 105-106.)
Using a hair dryer on glossy surface RC paper definitely helps minimize the milky-mottling and deepen the gloss.
I don't use glossy fiber paper but using the Arkay heat dryer gives matte surface papers a little more zest.
However, heat drying is generally not recommended for certain toned prints. It doesn't appear to affect the color of selenium prints toned to completion but may affect sepia or other toning methods.
I finanlly gave up using the dryer - I just ahng them now and put them in the press after they are dry. I use a Seal 210 and place each print between two sheets of blotter paper (pre-heated to 210F) and just let the weight of the platten flatten them out over a few minutes. I found using my drum dryer could actually create unwanted creases and if I just hang them dripping wet and let them dry and curl as they like and then put them in the press, I get the best results.