May I suggest making a contact print of your negatives before enlarging them. This will give you a good basic exposure time/aperture which you can use to guide you in making a print from the negatives.
The time and aperture which you can best use would be found by (. . . long explanation follows . . .) setting your enlarger-head to a height where the light from the empty neg-carrier covers 10x8", with a half inch or so spare. Focus the edge of the neg-carrier sharp by eye, and double check you are still going to be covering the 10x8" paper. This size of paper is the smallest size which fits six strips of six shots of 35mm negatives - it seems from your other thread that you are using 35mm Lucky film, so it will fit on this size paper. (EDIT2: It turns out the person using 35mm Lucky film was someone else, but 120 roll in 6x6 format will also fit fine on this size of paper.)
Put the paper down, arrange the negs on top (holding them only by the edges of course) and place a piece of glass or polycarbonate-plastic (a little larger than the paper) on top to keep the negatives flat and in contact with the paper. Make your test strip with the lens stopped down to f8, so that with a grade-2 filter you can only just see the smallest possible difference between black background in the holes in the film and the 'clear' part of the negatives next to the holes. This is the beginning time for a print for an averagely well exposed negative at that contrast grade and head height. For sure it is unlikely to be the best possible time, certainly not for every shot, but it gives a good indication of what is going on with your camera-exposures and film-developing as you 'should' have recognisable images on the contact sheet. If you always follow this routine you will always have a consistent guide to which shots need more or less printing exposure or contrast, and a consistent benchmark for changing camera exposure or film development too.
The development time for the paper would usually be between one and two minutes for RC paper. Check the documentation with your paper and print-developer for the manufacturers recommendations.
Posting a shot of the contact sheet will enable further advice from the forum to be based on something visual instead of just words. That will save a lot of messing about!
Obvious first checks might be to note that you should most likely be using separate developers for the film and the print ('universal' developers exist but even with these the dilutions are very different) and that you have the paper the right way up. You can check the emulsion side of the paper by looking at the curl of it. For the RC paper I have here, Kentmere, the emulsion side is the convex side of the curve. The old test with fibre-paper would be to dampen a finger and then touch both sides to feel the difference, but Resin Coated paper seems pretty much the same front and back.
Good question from the poster above. What is your location and native language? Maybe someone can give you a quick demo, or at least a more understandable explanation.