burn and dodge
These are two of the 5 prints I made on ART 300.
Based on your experience, is it worth trying to reduce the highlights of the first one. It seems that if I try it will not be easy to make it looks nicer and I will end up trhoughing many paper out.
The second one seems to be easier but I wonder if doing so, the hight lights behind the tree leaves will not match on the highlights of the open sky, which may look odd.
What would you do?
I'd flash the paper to reduce the contrast. Helps keep the highlights from being burnt out.
Like 1/10 sec flash???
Originally Posted by Ian Grant
You have to test the paper to see just how much pre flash needs to be done.
Doubtful 1/1o will do much.
Have you ever preflashed before?
marciofs, to do a proper flash as Ian suggests, you need to do a test strip first to determine the flash time. What you are usually trying to do with a flashing exposure is give the maximum amount of exposure without creating any density/tone (ie the developed and fixed paper should still be white) before the main image exposure.
Another thing you might want to do first is make some very low contrast test prints so that you can see what detail the negative contains in those highlights, particularly in the grasses in the first image.
Regarding your second question, these are challenges often encountered in printing, and there is nothing wrong with having to do some work. It can take pracitice and time to make good prints from difficult negatives. You need to use burning, dodging and other controls carefully so that they are hidden in the final print.
You can also learn something from these images about negative exposure/development control, which can help to make future negatives a little easier.
Don't give up so quickly if you like the image. See what information is in the negative first, then figure out how to get it onto the print. Start with contrast adjustments, burning and dodging, and flashing. Then proceed to more complex procedures such as masking if required.
Quite the opposite, flashing is ideal for images like this. Flashing paper doesn't look remotely like a fogged print either, you need to see the technique in use.
Originally Posted by noacronym
I have never pre flash but I can practice doing small prints on a cheap paper to see how it can helps.
On the sky there is no information. But if I can make it looks light gray instead of white it would be nicer.
I actually used a yellow filter to take this photograph, to give some contrast the greens and brown tones of the leaves and trees.
To be honest, I actually don't know how I could save the sky texture in a such contrasty scene.
These lighting conditions are not very difficult to manage. You just need to adjust exposure/development, and practice printing. Most current films can easily accomodate this kind of contrast. Also keep in mind, even if you don't need to get tone in the sky, flashing could still help details which extend into the sky - for example the branches coming down into the frame on the top right side of the second image.