[QUOTE=Christopher Walrath;793171] If you turn on the enlarger to compose another print you lose the safelight for placing paper on the easel until after the timer has run out.
Or just use the toggle switch without running the timer, to turning the enlarger on/off.
Very good! It's not a proper meter, but a comparator. It basically has a bar graph with a 4-stop total range in 1/4-stop steps, and a sensitivity dial. You plop it on your paper, adjust the graph to some middle value then you can use it to compare brightnesses for changing between print sizes. The photodiode is a very small point so it's easy to compare using say, someone's forehead.
Hows the homemade meter?
Dodging and burning are a whole lot easier with the safe light off. I tried having it on and coiuldn't see the image on the paper nearly as well. I can't imagine a reaon for wanting it on while exposing the paper.
I use the RH Designs ZoneMaster enlarging meter and it will not give a proper reading with the safelights on. I have it connected to their StopClock Pro and it controls the safelights while I'm taking readings.
I think what I will do is make another, dim safelight and plug it in to the wall straight and have my current bright safelight only be on when the enlarger is off. That way when the enlarger is on, I can still see at least a little bit.
it is funny, i thought it was one of those things that the timer companies did just to confuse everyone ...
i have light outlet and a pull string for my safelight ( always on, unless film is out ) and have never had trouble burning and dodging
with the light on ... i have had trouble burning/dodging when i make contact prints .. it is a 300 watt bulb and it is sometimes hard to get used to
to (burning + dodging) with so much light ...
sorry for being so clueless, but why would someone need an enlarger meter ?
to check the evenness of light cast down from the enlarger ?
... or to help give a better understanding where to start a test strip at ?
Both of those, but mostly the latter. They can also help determine the required contrast for a negative -- you meter separately off of the highlights and shadows, and use a little dial/calculator thing to determine the contrast grade.
Originally Posted by jnanian
At least, that's the theory. I've used a couple of enlarger meters, and I've found that they steer me wrong more often than they steer me right. Maybe mine are dodgy or maybe I'm using them wrong, though. Either way, I've stopped using them.
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
Originally Posted by srs5694
thankfully i haven't been there yet :)