OOZE is a reread please. Black round heads need the short neck bulb, the grey oblong can take the common long neck bulb.
I got Newton rings all the time. You need the AN "filter" that clips under the condenser. These cost as much as the enlarger.
Grey heads have a filter opening, but not necessarily the hardware to make them work ( there needs to be a rod out the right side). I made a filter carrier to go into the opening. You can also lay a filter over the condenser.
The original Focotar lens is optimized for 5x. 8x10 starts getting poor. There is a large front element Focotar lens and the Focotar 2 which are much superior.
Get more info on it before you buy.
The 1c is the best designed small enlarger for -135 format. I prefer the 1c size to the larger V35 and how the 1c condenser sits on the negative. My enlargements are normally less than 8x and I only work in B&W. The 1c is perfect for my needs. If I projected enlargements greater than 10x I would pick the V-35.
Ilford sells a universal box-like filter device intended to attach around the enlarging lens of many enlargers. My 1c was rigged with this device. The filter bracket is attached to small .5 to .75 inch thick wood spacer glued to the parallelogram arm horizontal link extending below the lens of the 1c. I slip a 3x3 inch filter on top of the under-the-lens filter device.
I never experience Newton rings. The enlarger is always aligned. The elevation changes butter smooth. After setting the focus it never drifts. I imagine the oblong head is an improvement but they come with a baseboard elevation indicator cluttering up workspace.
I raise the centering fitting (with bulb) to the highest position in the head and experience no noticeable unevenness of negative illumination. The bulb is a GE P11/212 and not the correct short neck OSRAM bulb.
The older Focotars have the long physical length making a change of aperture easier than the shorter El Nikkor nested higher in the helical. Clean Focotars are hard to find and are not better than a modern Schneider/Nikon 6 element 50mm/f2.8.
I love my 1c. At my desk I'm looking at a 5x7 portrait. I used a hooded 1956 Leitz 50mm Sumicron at f/4. Film was Tri-X @ EI 200, souped in D-76 1:1 for 11 min. Enlarged with the 1c using Ilford Fiber WT toned in KRST. Wow!! The image has a smooth/sharp look with open shadows. What a classic look. The old timers know what I mean.
No matter what I do I cannot bring the image to the size 8"x10"(20x25cm).
This enlarge I have has Focotar 50mm f/4.5. May I know what does it mean starts getting poor for 8"x10".
Originally Posted by Ronald Moravec
Can't imagine a Focotar being poor anywhere! Mine was excellent, but I replaced it with an El-Nikkor 2.8, much easier to focus. The 1C is a great enlarger to use (I also have a V35) but I found that I had to use the anti-Newton ring filter over the condenser. I also have the truly excellent Ilford Multigrade head on mine, and this makes it much nicer to use than the V35. Lately I have fitted the 1C with a 63mm El-Nikkor which is great for doing full frame prints on 10x8 paper, you do need an extension tube for this though.
When I had the standard head on mine (it was round and grey) you could use multigrade filters in a drawer above the condenser, was a bit fiddly though, and you couldn't split grade because the drawer was a bit tight and the enlarger would move a bit.
My ignorance, I thought I can able to project an image of size 8"x10" with an offset +/- 1/4" on 8"x10" paper.
But now, I came to know this enlarger @7x mag can reach 6.72" x 10.08".
I bought ILFord Multigrade filter set 0-5(no 00) seems very old. Nevertheless, I cannot able to fit the filter holder under the lens. No chance at all...I am little disappointed now.
The 1c requires the extension tube labeled DOORX to be screwed into the end of any 50mm enlarging lens. The parallelogram arms controlling head height is attached 1/3 up the column. The assembly is secured with a metal pin through a column opening. I easily make 8x12 inch prints.
I have the multi-grade under the lens holder attached to my 1c. The filter holder is glued to a wood spacer glued to the metal cylinder which links the two lower parallelogram arms. I place 3 inch by 3 inch filters on top of the filter opening.
I believe you can remove the red/orange filter in the under lens swing-out filter. Place flat contrast filters on top of the glassless circular frame.
Also, I found there is a filter tray available for Ic as listed in http://www.glennview.com/leitz.htm unfortunaltey it was sold. Nevertheless, I will try to hold it with the hand and see how things goes.
Agreeing with Richard's point, I've found the easiest way to add filtration to a 1c without a drawer (I've actually got the 1b, none of which had a filter drawer) is to remove the red filter from the under-lens swing filter and simply place the required filter on that and swing it into place. This is quite simple, and the under-lens filter sets usually include a red "safe" filter which can be used in lieu of the original, should you require. These earlier autofocus Leitz enlargers are excellent........very sturdy and, with a Leitz lens, a very accurate and stable autofocus mechanism. I don't have any anti-Newton glass, but only find Newton rings to be an occasional problem in certain humidity conditions. Dust can be a problem, though, so good darkroom practice is a must! I've found that the later Focotar 2 50mm lens works really well with this enlarger.......worth finding one if you can.